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IT GOODS FINISHING 






AMERICAN SCHOOL ofCORRES 

CHICAGO I ILLINOIS 



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Class _7l71VS 

Book nvT 

Coipght N°. 



C0I1-KIGHT DEPOSIT. 




CIRCULAR SPRING.BEARD NEEDLE LOOP WHEEL MACHINE FOR MAKING PLAIN WEBBING 

Toiiipkiiis i3ros. Co. 



KNIT GOODS 
FINISHING 



INSTRUCTION PAPER 



PRKI'ARKD by 

M. A. Metcalf 
Maxaging Editor, "The Textile American" 



AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE 



U. S. A. 



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Copyright 1909 bv 
American Schooi, of Cokresponiiknce 



Entered at Stationers' Hall, Logdon 
All Kights Reserved 



Cla.fc. E'l tT'JT 
JUL 14 t909 



^^ OC/^I^C: 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING AND 
FINISHING MACHINES 



One of tlic marked characteristics of the time is tlie increased 
deniaiid for ready-made fjarments. The first demand for this grade 
of clothing seems to have l)ecn by sailors fitting out in New Bedford 
for long whaling voyages. So many men going out of port at one 
season of the year influenced an enterprising store-keeper to have a 
lot of clothing made up ready for the rush. This was before the 
sewing machine was invented; and the clothing, though far from 
stylish, was conifortaV)le and duralilc 

From this small beginning came the enormous clothing industry 
of totlay, with its many branches, including men's clothing, ladies' 
clothing, muslin underwear, children's dresses, skirts, shirtwaists, 
infant wear, knitted underwear, etc. Before the sewing machine 
came into use, the clothing industry was being rapidly developed, 
and this undoubtedly served, in a large degree, to spur on the in- 
ventors to produce a sewing machine. 

The growth of the industry has been marvelous. It is, and 
always has been, a great incentive to the sewing machine manu- 
facturers to exert their inventive faculties, and in this large special 
field, a profitable market is found. Large and profitable concerns 
have been developed in the ready-made garment industry because 
the manufacture of garments in large lots makes it possible to offer 
them at prices that conuuand attention and in better style than those 
turned out by the average tailor or seamstress. 

The knitted underwear branch of the clothing industry early 
saw the advantage of concentrating its help under one roof and under 
the skill and guidance of experts, and they, quicker than any other 
branch, also saw the great advantages of special machines. As a 
result they have today the best e(|uippcd factories in the ready-made 
garment business. Almost every operation, in fact every operation, 
has a special machine designed and adapted to perform that part 
of the work. It is an unusual thing for an operator to make a gar- 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



iiiciit coinplctc ill a Uiiittid midciwcaf t'actorv. After leaving tlic 
cutter in l)iiiulle.s of one dozen each, liiey ])a.s.s .siieeessively llirc(ii;,'li 
different operators' liaiuls for almost every operation. 

KNIT (lOODS FINISHING 

Since ttie nianiifactin-er of knit floods lias iindcrtaken to pro- 
mote liis sales liy direct ])ersonal solicitation, the details of finishinf; 
have hcconie almost innunicral)le. When knit ij;oods weri' marketed 
ehiedv hv the commission honses it was customary to sell the goods 
as the sample was made up, hut when the mannfactnrer, to close his 
sales, sought to do a httle better than his competitor and ofi'ered to 
"oat-stitch", to put on Prussian hinding, or four buttons instead of 
three, or |)car! liuKoiis instead of bar, or a ribtail instead of In in, or 
collarette instead of liinding, or stitched with silk, or one (juality of 
golloons here, and another (piality of JMittoiis — cloth, bar, ivory, 
bone, shell <)i' pearl — single slilclied, two needle stitched, or three 
rows of stitches, or some of the inmmicrable catch features a(la])table 
to the finishing of underwear, he built up for himself and for the 
entire trade an interminable nunduT of styles to ])erplex himself 
as well as his helj) and retard ])n)dncliiin ; be<anse this or that lot 
must be marked SSA1521 or Xo 2l2."), or with some otliei- liiir(igly|)lnc 
e(|iially diflicult to keep run of, and sort out. 

We will take inidcr cuiisidcratinn the more inipdilant jiroce.s.scs, 
leaving tin- more stvlish ilesigns to lie acf|nired after due experience. 

Between the first attempts to produce factory-made underwear 
and the many line examples of the art before us on every hand at 
the |)rcsent day, is a goodly journey, and to one who has been a priv- 
ileged ob.server of even a part of the necessary changes, both mechan- 
ical and artistic, which havi- followed one after another during this 
period, the transformation is of vast interest. 

I-'rom an artistic standpoint, and in a peculiar sense, much of 
the credit for the excellence of our |)rcscnt-day underwear must be 
given to the garment designer. This person is ncx'cr satisfied with 
a new design or ell'ect if anntlicr suggests itself which seems belter; 
and if nieeliaiiical difhculties prohii)it its adoption, they are but a 
spur or incentive for the inventor, and are looked upon as things 
to be overcome. The cares and designs of the garment maker, or 
originator, however, are of a dilfercnl nature from the foregoing. 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



in that there is never any surety that the particular style of finish 
or cut of a garment, which is hnally worked out with such exceed- 
ing care, will remain in vogue longer than one season at the most. 

Fabric. These most useful and necessary garments are today 
made in an almost inconceivable number of styles, and in as many 
different qualities. There also seems to be no end to the different 
kinds of fiber which may be used one way or another in their fabri- 
cation. Silk, wool, cotton, ramie, mohair, camel hair, flax, etc., 
are all adaptable in some form or other, or in various condjinations, 
so that we are al)le to select garments that arc not only perfectly 
adapted to meet our rec|uirements of warmth for the winter season, 
or cool comfort in the warmer months, l)ut every grade shows re- 
markable taste as to finish and texture of the fabric itself. 

Yarn. In making the yarn for this peculiar elastic fabric, we 
have recourse to all of the various fibers which are used in woven 
fabrics, but differing from the latter, a knitting yarn must be smoother 
and more even. If these requirements are complied with, the knit- 
ting process is much faster than weaving, and conserjuently a greater 
quantity of knittcfl cloth can be made at the same cost, than of a 
woven fabric of e(|ual quality. For this reason, and because of the 
elastic nature of a knitted fabric, it is especially suited for wear 
next to the body, and has taken the place of all other kinds of material 
for this purpose. 

The finest results are obtained \>\ the u.se of silk yarn, yet many 
very satisfactory fabrics are made from lisle thread and mercerized 
cotton; fibers that arc much cheaper than silk. Such fabrics retain 
their style, shape and lirilliancy through much hard usage, and many 
trips through laundries. Indeed, the problem seems to be that on 
the medium-priced garments the trimmings, which are necessary to 
present a sufficiently neat appearance, must be of a somewhat better 
quality than the fabric itself, in order to wear as well. 

Making Up Samples. In making up samples for an approach- 
ing season, the designer's field would appear to be somewhat limited, 
from the fact that the general styles or character of these garments 
have now become standardized, and are in a measure arbitrary. 
Thus the vest or shirt of a two-piece suit will allow of but little altera- 
tion from the usual shape, except in the length of sleeves or cut of 
the neck; and with the pants and drawers which complete these 



KMT GOODS FINISHING 



suits there is still less opportunity for change. In the case of one- 
piece or union suits, which are intcjfra! from neck to ankle, these 
restrictions also exist and are, if anything, more arbitrary than with 
the two-piece styles. 

Under sucli <on<liti()ns it is evident that any very radical innova- 
tion in the cut or sliape of these garments is out of the f|uestion; 
so the desisrner's ell'orts must of neccssitv he confined to the minor 
details of texture, finisli, color, etc. In tliis field, however, liis art 
has the fullest scope, for there is no end to the variety of effects that 
are po.ssible by the use of the various trinuning materials, by them- 
selves or in cond)ination; or when introduced as contrasts with the 
fabric itself; and it is principally these essential details that have 
brought about the present advanced state of the art. The chief 
fundamental that must l)e recogni/.ed is that tlie wearers of these 
garments demand something that siiaii be of an even thickness 
throughout, so whatever may be superimposed in the way of l)an(ls, 
facings, etc., must not be of any ajipreciablc thic'kness that will cause 
the garment to appear l)ulky in any ])art. 

The basic fabric, having l)ccn ])rcvi(>usly determined as to 
weiglit, firmness, etc., is sufiieient of it.self for tiie rc(iuirenuMits of 
the season, and any extra thickness beyond this often proves un- 
comfortable to the weariT. 

The seams that are introduced to unite the several parts into 
a garment must also be flat as well as strong, and without any un- 
necessary ridge or corded a|>])carance. These are prime essentials, 
which may be considered as standardized, and having provided for 
them in a satisfactory manner the linai dclaii of finish may be con- 
sidered. A certain amount of this, is, of cour.se, indcs])cnsable, as 
it is recpiired for the practical |)urposes of fastenings in the form of 
buttons, lacings, etc., and as l)indings, facings, hems, etc., for pro- 
tection of llic several openings and cNticmitics of the garments. In 
.selecting the nuitcrials for tiiese ])ur|)oscs, iiowever, many ]>leasing 
eiVeets are possible, and they may be made to serve in a decorative 
sense as well as being utilitarian. 

Selection of Materials. In selecting the nature and (piality of 
fiber or material from whicii the fal)rie will be made, it is necessary 
that the detail of color shonlil be con.sidereil in conjunction, liecause 
if a specific hue or shade has Ijcen predetermined, and a dye or other 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



artificial agent is necessary to produce tiie desired result, the especial 
fiber known as the most favorable vehicle must l>e chosen; for among 
the many generic dyeing agents, or their mordants, some are more 
perfectly adapted to a specific liber than olhcrs. If a natural color 
is desired, that fiber wliich lias the cleanest appearance wiicn in this 
state must be selected. 

Havina: determined the fiber, color, and aannc of the faiiric, 
and having a finished jiicce of cloth bcfoic him, the designer's task 
is to shape the pattern or cut of the garuunt, and to decide on an 
amount and (juality of finish or trimming that seems necessary and 
a|>pr(ipriatc. This is essentially the chief's province, in which there 
is recoiu'se to no assistance excepting that rendered by the makers 
of whatever finishing material he needs, such as facing, bands, bind- 
ing, lace, buttons, etc. 

Style of the Garment. The stvh- of underwear in most general 
use is the two-piece suit, consisting of shirt and drawers, or vest and 
pants. Tlie one-piece or union suit, however, is fast coming into 
vogue, and it has several points of superiority that appeal to a large 
class of users. While there is no intention to estalilish a comparison, 
one, and probably the principal, advantage of the union suit may 
be mentioned. 

This is the absence of a d()ul>le thickness of fabric around the 
lower part of the body and hips, for, as the garment is of one integral 
piece from neck to ankle, it adds but a single thickness over any 
part of the body. 

Style of Finish, in selecting an ap|)rii])riate amount of finish 
for all styles of these garments, a great deal of care and taste is re- 
quired, for if too much finish is impo.setl, or if it be gaudy, the desired 
effect is at once destroyed; this being especially true of the more 
expensive grades. In the detail of ner'k finish, for instance, while 
a novel effect is always sought for, either by the aid of lace, binding 
or a piece of the fabric itself having been knit with contrasting stitches, 
any material that produces a poor effect is at once seen to be out of 
place. This is also true of tiie front facing of shirts, and bands on 
drawers. 

The l)Uttons also are made in an endless variety, .some being 
very beautiful, and they assist very materially in ])roducing a dressy 
effect. 



KMT GOODS FIMSIIIXG 



As rcfjiinls tlic color sclu'iiic of the <;armcnt, (here an- prol)al)ly 
as niaiiv varviii<; tlicorios on this siihjfct as there are wearers f)f the 
garments. So the prol)lein is to exliihit only that which will not 
offend. All efl'ect that is pleasing has trimmings of a slightly dis- 
siuiiliir shade I'liim (he hasic color of the integral garment itself. 
Maiiv times tlie very siinplicitv of a desij^qi serves to attract att<iitinn 




ij;. 1. Turning auU Wiudiug-up Macbiue. 



to a fabric llial uilicrwise would fail of notice, e\ en if the greatest 
skill had liccn devoted to its every ])rocess of nKUinfactiire. 

FINISHING FLAT GOODS 

'I'lir nianiirr i>f handlin;j; knit g Is, anil ihv various operations 

re(|uircd in die jirocess of linishing, is aliout the .same in all kinds 
of goods, either shirts or drawers, hut for convenience a dozen shirts, 
followed through the mill, will illustrate the successive processes 
thev undergo. The .systi'in of tracing the garments with the .Stetson 
I'oupon cheek is perha|)s regarded as the licst and most reliahle .sy.stem 
for that pm-prtse. 

Turning the Cloth. When the rolls of <loth are removed from 
the take-up, the right side of the cloth is insiile thi' roll; that is, the 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



inside of tlic circiiiar wcl) of cintli as it leaves the needles on the frame 
presents a more sightly appi'aranee, showinfi; as it does the wale or- 
ril)s formed hy the stitch, while the outside of the fabric presents 
the annular courses forine<l \u the knitting operation. The beauty 
of the stitch formed on the ribberl side of the cloth distinguishes it 
as the right side or face. This rcc|uires the web to t)c turned inside 




Fig. 2. Lelghton Machine Co's. Knit Web Turning Macbiue. 



out, and it is usually most practical to turn it befon' it leaves the 
knitting room. The accompanying cut shows very clearly the mode 
of accomplishing tliis operation by machinery. (See Fig. 1.) 

The web of cloth is drawn on the tube or cylinder until the 
other end can be introduced into and drawn thi'ough the inside, 
and started around the roll at the further end of the machine, and 



8 



KNIT (iOODS FINISHING 



the power applictl and tlic cldlli idllcil u|) in sliape to he delivered 
ti) the cutter. Tlie maehine is simple ami readily r()in|irelieiide(i 
1)V reference to (he illustration. 

TIh' I,eij,'hl<in Machine Co.'s knit Weh lurniii;; machine is an 
important im|)r()venient in the process of turninj,' the wch. It is 
intended to l)c set up at the end of the turning tuljcs now in use in 
knitting mills and to put the mil df wehliing on the tulie ready for 
the rolling up machine, (o lake il olV (lirough the tuhe (therchy lui-n- 
iug the wel)) and roll it up again. This is a satisfactory device for 
putting the wehhing on the turning tuix-s. 




FlK. ;i. KusUuau EliiU'ii.- C'loUi Cuumg JUicUiuc Table. 



Ciitting to Shape. 'I'lie cUih, now heing right side out, is turned 
over to the cutter, who pushes an iron rod through tiie center, and 
places it in a rack, j)rovi<led for that |)ur|)osc, at the iiead of the cut- 
ting tahlc. 

If die cutting is doni' in the old way with a large, long knife 
pushed up and down through a slot in the laMe arranged to suit 
the si/e and stvic of the garment rc(|iiircd, the cutter draws from 
the roll such a length as he rccpiires, eut.s it off, and rc|)eats the ojjcra- 
tion until he has as many lengths in a |)ile, eveidy distrihuted on top 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 9 

of each other on the cutting table, as he may desire. After marking 
the top of the pile with a pattern corresponding with the slot in the 
table, he proceeds to "whip-saw" or cut out the sections of the gar- 
ment as marked out with the pattern. The smaller sections are cut 
and fashioned with hand-.shears, as also are the shoulders "sloped" 
where the sleeves are to be fitted in. 

Finishing Processes. After a dozen bodies, twenty-four sleeves, 
twenty-four cutis and twenty-four half borders have been prepared, 
they are tied up in dozen lots and turneil over to the loopers, who 
loop on or join the cuffs fo the bodies, the ril)-tails to the bottom of 
the shirts, ami join the shoulders without leaving a seam, as they 
are joined loop for loop in a manner not easily detected. They may 
be sewed together very nicely, but the point of joining is never 90 
smooth and sightly as by the looping process. 

The seamers then take the garments in hand to seam up the 
sleeves and join them to the bodies. The inspectors and menders 
then look them over and attend to what mending is necessary. 

If ovcrseaming the cuH's is in vogue the garments then go to 
the overseaming machines, to have the cuffs and half l)orders joined 
on the edges, after which they go to the washroom and are scoured 
and fulled. If tliey are to be bleached they are placed in the bleac'h 
house over night wet, and are given a sulphur Ijleach, taken out in 
the morning, rinsetl and sent to tlie boarding room where they are 
boarded on forms of the proper size as designated by the yarn marks 
in the garments. > 

After drying out in the dry room or drying machine, and re- 
moved from the boards, the garments are sent to the finishing room 
where thi' process of finishing l)egins by girls looking o^■er them to 
see if the sizes are prop(>rly sortetl, and stamping the sizes on the 
skirt of each garment, attaching the Stetson coupon tag and sending 
them to the neck marker, who marks the neck with a "kicker," or 
ir. an up-to-date mill with a power marker. 

After the neck flaps are I'ut the stitcher performs her operation 
of stitching tlown the fiaps, and takes off the first coupon, it being 
the first piece-work performed on the garments. They are now 
carried to a cutting table, the fronts marked, cut down for the button 
stays and button hole facings, and are then turned over to the facer, 
who sews on the facing, detaches her coupon from the tag, and 



10 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



passes them over to the twin-needle machine operator, who covers 
the raw e<l};e.s of tlie Haps. The ilozen then goes to the finishers, 
who put on the l)utton stays and further complete the garment 
with binding of such ([ualify as designated on tlic stuli end of the 
check. 

Tlic l)iitt<Mi-liolcr iKiw lakes the dozen in liand an<l makes tlie 
jjiitton holes, spacing them and trimming olf the threads. She turns 
them over to a little girl who marks them for the buttons and carries 
them to the hutton-sewing machine, where the buttons are sewed on 
and die tlireads trinuiied nil'. 

They now e(ime under the eyes of the inspectors, or lookers- 

o\er, who look them over 
carefully, trim off all loose 
tlireads and shaking eai'h 
garment, send them to the 
])ress-n)()m, where they are 
carefully f()idi'<l in ])apers 
(ir ])ress boards in dozen 
])aikages and jMit int" the 
press, in which they are left 
for three hours under a 
])ressure of oDOl) pounds or 
more, .\ftcr being taken 
out of the press and the 
press-boarils removed, they 
art" carefully .scaimed by 
girls, who throw out all 
imperfect goods and fold 
the perfects or firsts, in ])ropcr shape to lit the boxes, after which 
they are boxed and labelled, readv for the .shipper. A well regu- 
lated anil well managed mill ought luit to have mori' than 2", per 
cent of seconds, even on a niediinii grade of goods. 

nquipment and Arrangement of the F^inishing Room. .\ well 
c(|uipped, n|)-to-(lale mill today ha>. scNcral features in the linishing 
de|)artnu'nt that the larger munber of the mills have been .slow to 
adopt. In the.sc improvements are included an electric or power 
cutting machine, taking the |)lace of the old way of cutting with a 
knifi' following a slot in the cutting bench and pushing by hantl with 




Fig. i. EasliUHii Klectric C'li.Ui CiittliiK 
Machine. 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



11 



an up and down motion as witli a saw. Another departure is in 
the method of drying, a complete (h-ying machine being substituted 
for the old way of a large room given up to drying and wasting heat. 
The arramjemcnl of the tables — cutting, inspectors', makers', 
and other tables as well as the machine tables — depends greatly on 
the size of the finishing room. The cutting tables should be in close 
proximity to the knitting frames. If the cutting is done on a floor 




Fig. 5. WUlcox & Giblis "Overlock" Machine. 



above that where the loopers are, a chute can be arranged to slide the 
goods down near the loopers aftei- they are cut and bundled in 
dozens. To each bundle should be attached a patent tag, on which 
is printed a coupon for every operator who works by the piece to 
detach, in order to show the nundier of dozens she has done. The 
cutting may be done in the finishing room, if more convenient on 
account of the floor space. If there is space in the knitting room, it 



12 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



is more desirable to do the evittiuK there, tlie rolls of cloth lieinjj 
more awkward to handle than the bundled dozens. 

The seaniers should be near the loopers. The nearer all tliese 
several (.i..rati..ns are to each other, the less .lay-help is re.iuired to 
han.Ue tlie jroods, and it is folly to have operators of niaehines run- 
uiufT after tlieir work while tlieir niaehines lie idle. It .simply means 
more maciiines and nu.rc operators, and it is wi.ser in more ways 
than one to have little girls do what marking, and other preparatory 
work whic'h they arc capable of doing, carrying the work to tiie 
operators and taking it away, thereby getting the full production 
from maciiini'-;. 

EQUIPMENT FOR FINISHIN'C. 100 DOZEN K[-.\'l' GOODS 
AVII.I.CnX AND (".IBHS SYSTEM 

A good lini.shing e<iiiii)ment for iinishing 100 dozen men's or 
ladies' Kne underwear ilat goods, embodying the "Overlock" seam 
and hem of the Willcox & (iibbs Co., may be as follows: 

One electric or power doth cutting macliine, witli sliirl miuI drawer 

patterns. 

Eight Beattic doulile or hx-k-stitch loopers. 

Three Wilcox & Gilib.s "Ovorlock" niai-hincs. 

Drying-boards; the iiunibcr reciuircd depending upon the weight of 
goods and methods of drj-ing. 

One Kennedy's power neek marker. 

Patterns and shears for trimming. 

Six AVilieox <t Gibbs automatic finishers. 

Oiie catstitehcr. 

Six zigzag maciiines, for .su.spender tapes and covering gusisets of drawers 
and tovcring edges of cloth left after running necks. 

One button-hole machine. 

One button .sewing machine. 

Three two-needle machines, foi- double row of stit.liing on ..ulsidc. 

One single-needle machine. 

One Crawford power or hydraulic steam pre.<s, with press board.s. 

One rib cutter. 

One Kennedy automatic band cutting machine. 

One irreg.ilai" form-cutting machine, with dies for irregular shapes. 

One pajier .uttiiig machine for cutting domets, etc., into strips, .stays. 

bands, etc. 

One power cyeletling machine, for setting metal eyelets m drawers. 

If the drawers have .straps on the back witli two .sets of buttons 
and button-holes to change the waist .size, no eyelet machinery is 
needed, if a tap.' ur lacing is use.l, the cyel.-t may be eith.r a metal 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



13 



eyelet or stitched eyelet, the former calling for a power eyeletting 
machine, the latter for an eyelet stitching machine. 

It is still a custom in some mills to use end-sewing machines to 
close the cuffs and anklets, but this is not necessary, the present 
nu'thods of making the seams closing tlie cuffs properly. 

UNION SPECIAL SYSTEM 

An equipment for fini.shing 100 dozen men's or ladies' fine imder- 
wear, flat goods, sav half shirts and lialf drawers, on the Union 




Fig. C. Dewees Seaming and Trimming Machine. 



Special system, should have the following machinery, although, of 
course, the weight of the goods may make a slight difference: 

One electric or power cloth cutting machine, with patterns. 

Eight Beattie loopers or turning ofT machines. 

Three Union Special seamers. 

Drying boards — the character of work will determine the number. 



14 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



One Kennedy power neck marker. 

Patterns and shears for triiiimiiiK. 

Five I'nion Spcoial finishing inachines fur shirts. 

Six Union Special drawer (inisliiiin machines. 

One catslilcliing machine. 

One bnlldii-hule machitie. 

One buttnri sewing macliine. 

One sUappiiig machine, for sewing .suspender straps to (hawers. 

One rniiiii ."Special single needle (irnamental iiiachiiic. Inr making ])earl 
edge on binding. 

One eyelet sewing machine, for stitching muml eyelets, or one power 
eyeletting machine for metal eyelets. 

One Union Special two-line taping machine, hir cnvcring hack seam of 
drawers witli tape. 

One band stitclier, f(ir stitdiing drawer bands tDgetlier. 

Otic twin-needle machine for necking. 

One McCreary ril) cutter. 

One Kenne<ly automatic band cutting machine, for .stays and facings. 

One Gem jjaper cutting macliine fur cutting ll;imiels domet, etc., into 
strips. 

One Kennedy |)ower cutler, with dies for irregular shapes, fur cutting 
stays, drawer bands, forms, gu.ssets, etc. 

One Crawford power steam pre.ss, with ])ress boards. 

The Finishing Machine Table. Bfcaiisc of i\w vxiuUu^ rcciiiire- 
ment.s now fxistiiij; in lii^ii-spi't'd .scwiiit; iiiacliiiics, it will he roiiiizeil 

how \itallv iM'crssarv it is to tlic most (■HVcliiai pel fcuiiiaiirc oi' these 
inachines, anil to proloiif,' their nsefuhiess, that a solid support or 
foundation .should he provicle<l. 'Too often it is the case that the 
sewing inaehine.s ai-e negleiti'd with the result that their full efiieieiiey 
is never obtained, and they must be overhaiileil nuicli sooner than 
would be necessary if the table were of substsuilial construction, and 
the transmitters, shaftini; and jniUcvs sup])orted and aligiu-d in a 
workmanlike nian:Mi . 

( )f the .sewing machines in u.se at the present time, the greatest 
mnidxT are either neces.sarily com])le\ in their ronstruetion, and 
C'on.se(|uen(ly of considerable weight, or ate i\m at a high rate of 
.speed, which is often tnore than ei|ui\ aleiit to the wcii;ht factor in 
its ultimate etl'ect on the table. Many nuiehines combine both these 
features wi'iglit atid s|)eed- which, of coiir.se, means a tiouble tax 
on their supporting structure. 

That class of machiiK's which includes those used for biitton- 
lioling, button-sewing, and stra|)|tiug, is an exain|>le of the heavy 
type, and their most important function is the stop-motion wliieh 



KXIT GOODS FIXISHTXG 



15 



is made necessary hy the nature of their particular operations. These 
machines are run at a comparatively slow spcc(l, hut the unremitting 
succession of shocks from the stop-motion is a factor which imposes 
the hardest kind of service on the tabic. 

All seamino- machines, antl some of those used for linishinji; are 
comparatively lighter than the class just mentionc(l, liut the load 
which they contribute is aildc(l to by the high speed which is rc([uire(l 
from them. About the only machines in use at the present period 
that may be called liylit, as well as light running, are the small, 
single-thread finishing machines, and if those were the (tnlv ones to 




Fig. 7. Wilk-ox & Uibbs Sewiug Macliine Table. 



contend with, the ordinary light, wooden table would no doubt 
suffice. 

Recognizing the re(|uirements as they now exist, however, it 
becomes most important to consider them carefully, and provide a 
foundation for the machines that will meet the new conditions, not 
only with reference to the e.s.sential of convenience, but especially 
in regard to the required aniomit of strength and stiffness to ade(|uatcly 
absorb any amount of vibration that may develop. The result would 
insure increased general efliciency of the machines, their usefulness 
would be prolonged indcHnitcly, and the table itself would be prac- 
ticallv indestructible. 



16 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

There :ire, of course, niaiiy (lifVeriiif^ ideas as to how a table 
should he eonstrueted. A stronj^, wooden tahle has many good 
points, and so has one with iron legs and wooden top. The hitter 
meets witli lli<' most general favor, however, and seems to emluMly 
a greater nund>er of desirable featm-es than any other. With refer- 
ence to this subject a si't of ilrawings lias been j)repared (See Fig. .S) 
that illustrates several views of a taliic which is designed to embody, 
in the simplest form, many features that have been proven to be 
essential, together with others that are souu-what novel; and it is 
believed that a combination of this (lescri|)tion would ctt'ectually 
meet all of the essential conditions tiiat may arise. Tlic design is 
susceptible of modilications to suit the individual needs of I'ach mill, 
or as the course of the product through each (lc])avtmcnt nuiy neces- 
sitate, but the general scheme will be icadiiy understood. 

In this table the legs are of cast iron, tlie main featiuc of which 
is a straight, tubular form of ])ost that is designed to be locateil as 
nearly as p(>ssii)lc under the point of load or strt'ss which the table 
top receives from each line of macliint's. thus securing llic most direct 
support and connection between the nuicliine bases and the Hoor. 
The feet of tlu-se ]«)sts are extended horizontally from opposite sides 
of each ])ost in a line parallel with the length of the table, and in this 
maimer assist materially as braces in this direction. Strong lag 
.screws which enter the joists or stringers where possible ensure a 
most eflV'ctiial fastening to the floor at these points. 

A feature which is second in iinportanee only to a good iloor 
fasti'iiing is that of su])porting the main shaft in its bearings, for in 
a long stretch of table the corres|)oiidiug length of shaft must carry 
a considerable weight of iron in the form of pulleys and couplings, 
and as this factor is always greatly exceeded by that of the straining 
l)elt.s, which are ncce.s.sarily .short and must therefore be kept at a 
tight tension in order to transmit the required anunmt of ])ow<'r U> 
each machine, the resultant of these two forces, weight and strain, 
becomes of great moment. 

To provide an adequate resistance against these forces at this 
point, therefore, it will be noticed in the drawings that the nuiin, or 
lower cross rail web has been (|uite heavily ribbe(l both top and 
bottom, making it of tin- 1 bi'aiii form In scitioii. In addition to 
tills provision for strength in the rail itself, its entis are .seen to dci>end 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



17 



gradually to their points of connection with each tubular upright mem- 
ber, thus giving the rail an arch form in outline, and providing ample 
strength for its purpose in any direction. 

The well known provision for adjusting each hanger in its rail 
for the purpose of aligning the siiafl is shown in section. 




The upper cross rail which supports the wooden top, is provided 
with a wide flange on its u|)per edge, through which the screws that 
secure the top are passed. Its mid-section is supported through two 
extensions of the web which connect respcctivelv at tvN'o points on the 



18 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



upper .side (>r llic lower rail, licitli tliesc iiiils ami tlie twn tiihlllar 
npriffilt DieniixTs are cMniliiiied in one iiile;iral eastiiij;, and tiurr are 
no joints for the purpose of adjustnient wiiatever, exceptinj,' the one 
lor the purpose of aliiiuini; the shaft. 

It is no doulit convenient, and sonirliuies neeessarv, that vertical 
adjustment for the table's top he pi'ovided, hut whcic it is not neees- 
sarv, it is doulitful if this provision In a practical one, for if not fastened 

verv securely, such adjnstahle 
joints are soon out of plaee, 
arxl the tallies top dedeetetl 
therehy as hailly, or worse, 
than any door would .s<-ttle in 
years. So if a talile cai\ he 
erected without them, it would 
he rif^'id to the utmost limit, 
and, thereafter, never need 
attention e.xeept as the huild- 
iufj it.self iiiifjht ehaufje, and in 
tliaf event any ehani;e would 
alVeci all points of the talile 
('([ually, so if the shaft and the 
top were orifiinally in perfect 
alif;mnent 'their relation would 
never chauf^e. 

A .section of tlu> top is 
shown, the central jjortion of 
which is made of one-inch 
stock, approximately, and extends eontimiously over as many |)airs of 
leg.s, or supports, as its original lenj^th will permit. 'I'he two outer 
parts of each .section, however, are intended to l)c of nuich thicker 
stock — .say three inches — and will extend only from one le^ to the n<-xl 
adjacent one, thus provi<lin;,r n separate top section or liasi' for each 
'machine and its transmitter. 

'i'he ends of these short .sections are desiijneil to rest on the n|>per 
horizontal llaufjcs of the t\\<i adjai-ent east iron le;,'s in such a manner 
that two of the tops will meet and make a joint in the centre of one 
flan{;;c, aiul, if suitahle detachahle fastenin},'s are jirovided, it is pos- 
sible to remove anv section with its machine and transmitter undis- 




Kfiiiu'ilv s Power Ncc'lt Marlter, 



KNITGOODS FINISHING 19 

turlic'd, and rcpliu r tlicin lu'fwccn any oflicr pair (if legs. This makes 
it possihio til ([iiickiy sulistitutc one niaciiino for another at any point 
on I'itiier sich/ of tlic taMc wiiciicvcr it is fonnd necessary or desirahle 
to change the order of ()])erations through the department, and not 
be obliged to pass the dozens back, or cross the table. 

A trough or depression in the top has not been providi-d in this 
tal)lc, for the reason that this feature has alvvavs seemed to disclose 
as many defects as advantages, mainly in tlie fact that it was a very 
convenient receptacle for nuuiy forms of waste material, such as 
poorly wound cones of thread, or bobbins, defective binding, dirt, etc. 

One other item in the table's eiiuijiment is that of supporting 
the spools or cones in a position that will most favorably deliver their 
thread to the machines. This position would seem to be somewhere 
overhead, but within easy reach of the operatives, and a long central 
rack may be provided for the purpose, which would be supportt'd at 
intervals from the table's top, or suspended form the ceiling. The 
latter plan would lie preiVrable as the rack would not then be afl'ccted 
by any vibration from the niaeliines tlu'ough the table. 

ADJUSTMENT AND OPERATION OF FtNISHINQ MACHINES 

The adjustment of sewing machines is an operation which re- 
quires great care. If a machine is acting badly, an intelligent study 
of its condition is absolutely necessary before a move to correct it can 
be made Then, and not until then, can a remedy be applied with 
any hope of success. 

General Consideration. So much has been done with sewintr 
machines, and their various a])|)lications and forms of construction 
are so different, that it is hanlly possil)le to group them, nor is it 
necessary. In nearly all the main funefions are identical in principal, 
and before we take u\> each one separately, it is well to consider them 
generally. 

Nearly all sewing machines lia\(' die eombinatiou of a nrrdir; a 
throat or cloth plate, through which the needle passes after piercing 
the goods, a needle thread loop-laking device, an<l some form of feed. 
The needle must descend, or pass its point by the loopcr's point far 
enough and quickly enough to act in time for the looper to take the 
needle's thread, as .soon as the needle's upward movement forms a 
loop, and the feed mast do its work while the needle is out of the goods. 



20 



KMT GOODS FIMSIIIXG 



In feediiii; ;ni nnlimirv ]iic<c of iii;iti'ii:il i>ii a |)laiii niachiiK', it caii 
1)0 njciicrally stated tliat tlic t'coil must move laterally to t-arrv tlie 
floods as iiiiicli as is possible while it is aliove (lie ])late, tliat is, liave 
it appear aliove tlic jilalc as soon as possilile after the lieeille lias left 
the work, so as to have nearly all of its work done lu-fore it has to 
descend ajjain, therehy <;ettinj; the (greatest ainonnt of effective motion 




I'lR. ». SiiiBcr niiit.>ii Hull' Machine. 



with the least amount of actual motion; for the four motion fird 
actuated l>y eccentrics (the easiest device known for luij;h speed) can- 
not he nuule to take the ideal path, hut takes tin- form of an ellipse. 
The ideal j)ath would he a parallclojfram. This couM he ohtained 
hv haviutr the raisint; motion take place hefore anv lateral motion 
ahove the plate, and the drop motion iiefore the return helow, hut it 
is not suitalile for high speed, because the sources of motion would 



KXIT GOODS FINISHING 



21 



need to he intermittent, one waiting for tlie other, and ohtainahle only 
with some form of eams, which are iiard in their action and iaeiv 
effective means for taking up wear. Tliread controlling devices, such 
as takeups, and, of course, tensions, are common to all machines; and 
no small part of the adjusters' art is needed to properly manipulate 
these inoffensive appearing hut highly necessary parts of the general 
whole. 

Plain Finishing Machines. The plainest form of sewing ma- 
chines embraces the \Mllcox & Gihhs and Union Special types. They 
are one needle, single-thread, chain stitch machines in the high-speed 
class; and on work where this form of stitch is acceptable are very 




Fig. 10. IJuttons Sewed un by Maclimf. The .Ntw VVa,.v ui'iuiuiedj and lUe uld 
Way (untriiumed). 



economical, not only on the fpiestion of thread, hut as to their ease cf 
manipulation hy the operator, and small number and simplicity of 
parts. When onci.' in good working order tluy rarely need the atten- 
tion of the adjuster, and whin troubk' occurs it is easily located. 

The Needle. It is realized that the item of e.\pen.se for .sewing 
machine needles is large, and the practice of .saving those which have 
been di.seardcd and sorting the seemingly good ones out for use a 
secoufl time, is perhaps an economy in .some cases. The evils which 
an imperfect needle can eau.se are so many however, that it is of the 
greatest importance to nuike sure that this implement is not at fault. 

An intimate and e.xten.sive knowledge of sewing machines antl 
their habits has proved conclusively that it is a wi.se plan not to U!5e 



22 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

a needle a second time. If a machine is l)reakin<; more n<-e(lles than 
it should, tliere must lie some wroii;;- condition of adinstment. Tliis 
should he lookeil for and correete(l. 

The Loopcr. liavini;' made sni-c of a ^ood needle, llic loo])er, 
or liook, niusi he examined and made perfectly smooth with crocus 
cloth. 'I'he |)oint mnst he i's|)ccially smooth and of the proper .shape. 
If it has heen liroken or worn hhmt, a carcfnl ffrindini; or stoning 
will restore it to the most favoralile condition for taking a loop. If 
this process has shortened the length of the point niaterially, it may 
be necessary to change the spot on the shank so as to time the loopcr 
a trifle (jnieker. 

In the I nion .'-special l\pe the loojjcr may lie <|nickened liy 
lengthening its driving rod. As the point of a loopcr will allow of 
hut little remaking this shonld he done with great care, for if too nnich 
is taken oil' it is n.seless. It may also lie fonnd that the thread has 
worn a groove, or crease, in the neck of tin- loopcr, wIhm'c the loop, 
in the conr.se of forming the stitch, comes to a rest. This may he the 
cause of breakage, and many times can be stoned out without chang- 
ing its elVective form. 

In the liiion l-ljH'ial lv|)e of machine liie l(i<pp-retaiiiing wire on 
the midei-sidc of the throat plate nnist be looked at, and if rough, it 
also shonld be smoothccl with crocus cloth. This part is adjusted so 
that the loo|>er in its action travels very close to it. If it has by any 
chance become bent, so the loo|)er rubs it, breakage of thread is sure 
to follow, cither b\ being pinched olV between the two ])arts, or by 
their roughness froTU the too close contact. 

15efore the nuichine is ready for a test, look over all the eyelets 
or guiding holis through wliiili the thread passes. The.se must be 
smooth and ro\md, that is, they .should not have sharp corners over 
which the thread, in |)assing or being drawn up, will be compelled to 
take a sharj) angle. If a groove or crease has worn in any of these, a 
new, smooth one is necessary. If a machine breaks the tlucad in the 
chain, the trouble is most likely with the feed, or jiresser-foot, ])er- 
haps both. The bottom of llii' ])resser foot nnist be smooth and have 
a bearing from end to end on thi' feed points. It should also rest its 
whole length on the throat jilate when the feed is down. The needle 
hole and |)late nuist also be examined for rough |)laees. 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 23 

The Feed. A feed that is new and excessively sharp, or one that 
has been worn dull, may cause a breaking of the thread. In the 
latter instance, the chain will not be fed away from the stitch-forming 
position positively enough. If a feed is too sharp, we have the emery 
and crocus cloth remedy. If dull, it can be annealed and the teeth 
refiletl to their proper .shape. Many times the sharp burrs or edges 
of feed points nuiy be rubl)ed oil' with the wire side of a file card. 

Skipping the Loop. The causes for skipping (or missing) 
stitches generally lie in the needle and looper. If this is the trouble, 
first make sure that the machine is threaded properly. Then see 
that the needle in raising throws out its loop favorably for the looper 
point to enter. If the loop is not large enough, try the needle a little 
lower still, say one-sixteenth of an inch. If not enough, then try it a 
little lower still. It is not best to have the eye of the needle over one- 
eighth of an inch below the under-side of the looper point when the 
needle is at its lowest po.sition, and this may be considered the most 
favorable condition in nearly all ca.ses. The exceptions might be 
when unusually hard or .soft material is being sewed; and if, after 
trial, a lower po.sition of the needle seems better, it will probably be 
necessary to make the time of the looper a little slower, thereby 
allowing the lowered needle time to ri.se and open out its loop before 
the looper jioint gi'fs to it. 

If the loop does nyt open out .stpiarely before the looper point, 
the neetUe may be turned in its holder, or if it is spotted in the needle 
bar, the bar may be turned in the recjuired direction to make the loop 
open favorably. 

Loopers having short, slim points should be set so as to pass by 
the needle very closely, Init not touch it, for, as a rule, the needles in 
such machines throw a comparatively small loop. In machines 
which carry a broad, longer looper, it will be found that the needle's 
eye is driven farther below the looper point, and has more of an up- 
wa/'d movement before the looper point gets to it than is the case with 
the other. The vibratory type of loopi'r may be set (|uite close to the 
needle on its forward, or loo])-entering stroke, and as elo.sc to the 
needle on the return, or backward, stroke as is possible and touch it. 
These adjustments of the looper in relation to the loop retainer are 
quite vital points, and it is essential to have them correct before much 
else is done. 



24 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



Skij)|)in<; tif stitches and tlirca(I-l)rcakinji; oaii often lu- traced to 
poorly workiiij; tensions. 'I'lie tliread friction discs must alwavs he 
free to move on tlie post and lie dear of lint. If llic thread lias worn 
creases in tlie faces of the discs, they will not control the thread evenly. 
The sprinj; also must he of the ])roper streni;th, yet perfectly lle.xihle. 
If, havinjr exhausted oiu- list of remedies, the thread still ])ersists in 
hreakin^', it is hut fair that the (piality of liic tincad he considered, 
for a small proportion of the thread which is made will not run on 
any machine, and it liecomes a useless expenditure of time to try to 
make it do so. ' 

High Speed. The mailer of sjm'ciI also is to he considered. Be- 
yond a certain limit in e\fry machine, excessive speed is actualiv more 
detrimental to a manufacturer's interests than too little, foi' once let a 
nia<-liiiic lirciime racked and \\cirn fium this cau.se, its usefulness is 
over, and rejjeated overhauliufis heeome more and more nece.s.sary. 
In response to the user's standing retpiest for hiffh-speed machines, 
the desif^nei's work is constantly carriecl on with this as one of the 
inijiorlant cuds in \ ieu , and no ilouhl liini- will pi'oduce machines 
caj)ahle of 1,()(H) and even .'),l)Ol) revolutions per minute. 

Two Thread Fini.ihiiHi Machines. In takini; up for consider- 
eration those .sewiiifj machines which u.sc two threads in makiiiff their 
stitch, we enter a more intcrcstin<; and instructive dcpartnieul of the 
whole sewiufi; machine art and a|>])licalions, and it is esjK'cially inter- 
estinsr when cousidereil in c-onneclion with the mamifacture of knit 
goods, for the xvvy peculiar nature of this fahrie at once pmhihits the 
use of a stitdi that mii;ht he perfectly .satisfactory on goods of a firm 
texture. We may know this from the fact tluit thousands of machines 
which make the familiar two-thread, so-called lock stitch, with a 
shuttle and hdiihin, arc cm|)loyc(l exclusively in making- up our 
heavier outer garmcTits, and al.so underwear, which is made from 
nuislin and linen. These fahrics all are of a firm and non-elastic 
nature, .so there need \>v no dill'ercnt element re(piircd in the sewing 
stitch which enters so largely into thi-ir eomistruclion, an<l cj)nse- 
(|uentlv the lock stitch su(Iic-es, or rather we may say, it is necessary 
and therefore satisfactory. 

lAasli<-itii III th( Sriiiu. When oui' mcxlcrn kniltcd fahrie, with 
its Ijeiiutiful and distinctive featurt — elasticity — was invented, the 
question of garment making from it on sewing machines liecamc a 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



25 



Fi&.l 



/\/\/\/\/\/\ 



vital and puzzling one, and espt-cialiy was this the fact in the matter 
of seaming or joining the parts together, for if the old loek stitch was 
introduced for this purpose the non-elastic nature of it at once de- 
stroyed the very feature that brought this fabric into existence. From 
the very first, this stitcii 
seems never to have been 
considered except in one 
or two impractical ways, 
and the only other re- 
course was to some form 
of chain stitch, and up to 
date hut three forms of it 
have ever been used. 

First, and for many 
years, it was the single- 
thread chain stitch v.ith 
whicli all .seaming, as 
well as finishing, was 
done, and we may take it 
for granted that this seam 
met all early require- 
ments, but as the fabric 
was improved in texture, 
cjuality and finish, each 
succeeding year, the 
single-thread chain stitch became deficient in many respects, and was 
finally supplanted by the two-thread chain, or double-locked stitch. 
This stitch was first made by what we knew as the ( inner & Baker 
machine, and was a long step in advance of the single-thread chain 
stitch, because the .second or additional thread not only doubled the 
seam's strength, but the manner in which the two threads were looped 
or interlaced with each other, produced a greater degree of elasticity 
— two elements which we know arc of vital importance. 

THE LOCK STITCH, DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH 
AND "OVERLOCK" STITCH 

Sewing machines which use two threads in making their stitch 
may l)e grou])e<l in three classes — the lock sliich, the double chain 
stitch, and what is known as the ovvrlock stitch. 




Fig. 10. Diagrams of Ibe Lock Stitch. 



26 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 




Fig. 12. DcmWf Tliri'ud Cliain Stilili 



Lock Stitch. The first, or lock-stitch, shown in Fij;. 11, is the 
oldest form of the three. It is not nsed in the actnal making; of a 
•rarnicnt from knit jjoods to any {jreat extent, owini; to its lack of 
eliisticitv, that is, it will not yield when tlie i;oods are stretched with- 
out breaking apart. This, of course, ])reelu(ies its u.se for such a 
purpo.se. It can he, and is used in liutlon-liole, hutton-.scwing, over- 
•seaniin'; and (•at-stitchin<; machines, and in tiicse (i|)frations it is 

perfectly satisfactory. In liutton- 
iioliny: and hntton-scwinif the 
stitches are conlin<'d to particular 
|)ia>cs on the garment and are not 
contimions as in a seam, .so the cle- 
ment of elasticity is not rc(|uire<l. 
In over-.scaming and <at-stitching, iiowevcr, this stitcii nnist he 
clastic, and as it is u.s<'d in tiiesc o[)erations it is so from tiie fad that 
tiic machines arc constrncted so as to lay the threads on the two sur- 
faces of the material in a succession of diagonal stitches, as illustrated 
in Fii's. 2 and 1, and wlun the faliric is strctciied tiicse diagonal 
stitches change their position to make an ap|)ro\ini,itcly straiglit line, 
somctiiing like I'Mg. 'A in a|)|)earaiice. 

nilVcrciil (hgrecs of elasticily may In- (ilitaiiird liy adjusting tiic 
machine to sew a varying luimher of .stitches in a given distance. For 
instance, a seam having twelve stitches to one inch, will he much more 
elastic than one having four stitches in the same distance. There is 
no way hv \^liicii lliis stitcli can practically hi' made to produce an 
elastic .strai'dit-awav .seam, so if liiis is desired a lock-stitch cannot 
he considered. 

Double Chain Stitch. The second, m- <li)ulil(-<liaiii >titcli, is 
much more elastic tiiaii (he iock-stitcli, and is, therefore, peculiarly 
ada|)Icd for use in making garments from knit goods or any material 
of (hat nature. It is clastic for the reason that a surplus lengtii of 
thread is introduced into eacii stitch, i"ith in the knot or tie of (lie two 
threads together, and a.s it is laid on tlie sinfa<c of tlie material he- 
tween the successive needle j)unctures. 

The excess of needle thread is ohtaiue<l from tlic fact that tiie 
tic or connection of this thread with tiic under or ionpcr thread is 
always made on the lower smface of the work, .so, instead of lying in 
a coiu])arativelv .straiglit line, as it does in a lock stitch, it must pass 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



27 



through the material to its tying position with the under thread, and 
then back again to the upper surface at eaeii puncture of the needle. 
The position of this threail as it lies in the stitch is shown at A, Fig. 12. 

A surplus of under thread is obtained in this stitch from a process 
of weaving or looping from stitch to stitch, which gives it a total of 
three times the length of the stitch itself; that is, there are three 
strands of thread laid on tiie midi'r-surface from one lock to another. 
A close examination of a seam uf this character will show the course 
of this thread (|uite plainly. It is iliustratc(l at 1? in Fig. 12. In this 
manner both of the threads are gi\cn a greater length. than the seam 
itself, and produce the necessary amount of elasticity. Of course, 
all of this elastic element may be eliminated from the stitch by exces- 
sively tight tensions, and 
it therefore follows that 
more or less may be ob- 
tained as required from 
the same agency. 

"Overlock" Stitch. 
The "overlock" stitch is 
tliemost elastic of all, and 
its distinctive feature is 
that it is, in addition to 
this, a very efficient cov- 
ering or wrap])ing stitch. 
This makes it valuable 

for edije-Hnishint;, or selved<rintr, as well as for seaniiny:, and when u.sed 
for seaming the result is a beautifully-finished, even and perfectly 
elastic joint of the two parts of the garment, the edges of which are 
neatly covered and protected from wear. The elasticity of this stitch 
is obtained by laying so nuuli of its tin-cad, both ujjper and under, 
across the line of the seam. 

Another advantage which the duublc ciuiiii and the overlock 
.stitches have over the lock stitch is that the thread may be used 
ilirectly from large spools or cones, for unlike the lock stitch, the 
spool-end of the looper or under thread is never passed through the 
needle loop l)ut the two threads are locked or laced together from 
stitch to stitch, similar to a knitting stitch or crocheting. This does 
awav with the necessitv of bobbins for the under-thread, on which 




Fiti. i;i. Diagram uf Covering Stitch. 



2H 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



tlu' niitiilKT of yards wliicli may I)o wound is alwavs limit ed, owing 
to tilt' fact tiiat tlicwiioic functioiiai f^roup, tlir('ad,l)ol)l)iii,and bol)l)in- 
case, must lu- ])assc(l ciitirciy tiironiili tiii' ni'i'<ll(' tlircad loop for t-arh 
stitdi. 

Ill the chain and ovorlotk stitclics only a vcrv littii- more thread 
is drawn from tiic lu'cdlc than is actually rc(|uircil to make the stitc'ii 
when it is hnally set in |)ositi()ii, so that no ji'reat unused surplus must 




l''ig. 11. ■•uvcriucU" Scam for Sleevus. 



needs lie taken iiaek tlirnni^h the eve ol the needle l>\' the nioviui; eye- 
lets. For this reason, the thread is not served hack and forth so 
nmch, and therehv frave<l or weakened liefore linally laid in the stitch. 
In referrini; to the aeeompanyinLj diasi'rams it must he home in 
mind that ihev are j,'really enlarged, and the positions of the several 
ihreails are consideralily distorteil in order to show more |>lainly their 
relation to one another. In actual practice a machine with pro])erly 
ailjiisted tensions and eorrectlv operatinj; stilch-foriniiif; ini|)lements 
will i)roduee a perreelh smooth and even stitch which can l>i' stronger 
than the fainie itself, givi'ii the pioper ipiality of thread. 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



29 



Tension. The matter of tensions is a very important one in all 
sewing machines, and we may sav tliat it becomes more so as the speed 







iiii 



Fig. In. "Overloek" Seam for Sides afld Gussets. 

factor is rai.sed in each successive "new mode!" which is hrought out, 




Fig. 16. "Overloek" Seam for Slinnhiers and "Overloek" Concealed Stitch Hem for 

Shirts and Cuffs. 

for it must be borne in mind that the same functions exist and must 
be reckoneil with in every kind of stitch, wiiether it is made at a low 



30 



KNIT GOODS FIXISIIIXG 



or lii<;li rate of spccil. ( hw of these functions is that a never-varying 
(|u:intitv of thrcail must l)e measured off for final treatment by the 
stitcli-foriniiiu iuiplcuicMts, i.e., the ni'edie, looper, etc., in every in- 
(liviiliial ^tilcli, and tlic pvoMcui is to i)n)duce an even stitcli with tlie 

ffreatest amount of precision, 
and without ap])lyiug any un- 
necessary friction on the sev- 
eral threads. 

Trimminjj the Seam. An- 
ollicr cicuicul of jj;rcat interest 
to us in the development of a 
sewed seam on this peculiar 
fabric is the inception and sub- 
.se(|ucnt stajics of im])rove- 
mcnt of tlu- trinunini; devices 
whicli now arc used in con- 
nection witli tlic stitching 
mechanism. 

Previous to JSSO the 
hand-sheared scam prevaileil, 
but tlic inventive and ever 
alert minds of the sewing ma- 
chinc makers (juickly saw an 
opportunity, and at once be- 
'ji-AU to consider the feasibility 
i>r idiiiliiiiini;' willi llic sewing 
mechanism an clficicnt trim- 
ming device wliich would per- 
form its office simultaneously 
\\ itii tlic making of the .seam, 
and thereby eliminate the slow, 
Kig. 17. ••overiiick ■• Over Eiiijf for .-^iiirLs iinii tcilious operation of shearing 

Cuffs and "(>verlorU*'Tallor-Mailo Seum , . i i i i 

fur shouiUcTs auu uussi'is. tlic projcctuig surplus by hand. 

'['he first trimmer seems to 
ha\c a|)pcarcd about ISSI), :iiid \\a> in the form of a circular di.sc with 
a portion of the disc left blank in onlcr thai the feed might operate 
frcclv. ()tlicr cjeviccs of niiimr ini|i(iilaiicc tnllnwci! at intervals, 
until the (h'vice whicli acted nn (!ic shear priiMiulc aiipcarcd. '1 his 




KNIT GOODS FINISHING 31 

was practical and efficient, and was in use extensively for some years. 
Then came the trimmer, which operated with the ahrasix-e process, 
and finally a maehiiie was hrought out which eml)raeed in one com- 
|)lctc whole the three elementary functions of sewinn', triininin^, and 
coverinij; the seam at one time. 

This lirings us to the present day, and from all die \ariuns inven- 
tions for the purpose of trimming knit goods which we know of, i)ut 
two of them have survived and are used to any great extent. These 
are the abrasive trimmer, which is u.sed in conjunction with a machine 
making the two-thread, douiile-locked chain stitch we have already 
mentioned, and the shear trimmer, which is incorporated in the ma- 
chine eoml lining tiie three covered stitch functions. These two trim- 
ming devices have stood the test and proved to he very important 
agents in the process of making the two types of our present finely- 
developed, covered, elastic seam on knit goods. 

The Union Special Devvees Trimmer. The Union S|)ecial .seam- 
ing and trimming machine (^shown in Fig. (i) was the result of a 
combination of the Union bag sewing machine anil the Dewees trim- 
mer, which was effected about 1885. The sewing stitch is the two- 
thread, double-locked chain mentioned above, and the trimmer is of 
the abrasive type. 

This machine has stood the test of years as to strenglli, ihu'a- 
bility, speed, and general all-round efficiency. The trimming device 
is an original, unique, and effective one, requiring no sharpening of 
knives, is durable, can be operated at a high rate of speed, cuts a 
clean edge, and the amount of fabric lieyond the seam can l)e regu- 
lated to suit any material. It will |)erform its work satisfactorily for 
days, with practically no attention whatever other than the ordinary 
oiling of its parts. 

In the final development of the seam, after it has been seamed 
and trimmed, the garment is submitted to another operation, which 
employs one of the best designed Union Special machines. This is 
a side wheel cylinder, two-needle, three-thread machine, especially 
adapted to cover the trimmed seams on knitteil fabrics. The cylinder 
is small and permits of covering the seam of a very small sleeve or leg. 
Two parallel rows of stitches appear on the upper surface of the ma- 
terial, (or outer side of garment) while on the lower surface of the 
material, (or inner side of garment) the rows of stitches are inter- 



32 KMT GOODS FIMSUIXG 

l()fkt'(l l)v ;i tlircail wliicli ciilircly comts ami draws down flal lliat 
portion of the fal)ric hcvoiid the scam. 'I'liis adds strciii;tli to llic 
seams to a {;ri'at dfijrt'o, besides producing; a very sijjlitlv and eoni- 
fortable result. 

The seam w liidi is made on this svslcm is nncul' the best which has 
ever been devised. It has great slrcni^lh, each stitch bcin<; l'astene<l 
iniiependently as well as in combination, so that it camiot rip, and 
is very elastic. It is Hat and smootii on botli faces of the "garment, 
thereby ensnrini;- the greatest comfort to the wearer. 

In adjusting the trinuner on the I'nion .'Special botii upper and 
lower toggles nnist Hrsl i)c ground on a true circle with the center of 
each one, which is <'asily done on the small grinder furnished with 
this machine. The U])per toggle should then \n- dressed to a small 
round on its circular edge, so that its contact with the lower toggle 
will be but a very narrow edge having no sharp corners. The lower 
toggle nnist In' left straigiit or Hal, across its circular edge to provide 
a smooth surface for its mate. 

To (idjii.st tor/iilc.s, fasten the lower toggle in die toggle frame by 
its fulcrum and clamp .screws, and .see that it is at the proper height 
in relation to tiie feed, means for this ])urpo.se being provided by a 
wedge with thread and nut at one end which lie in the toggle frame 
beneath the fulcrum block. 'I'hc height of this toggle should be with 
its circular edge about half-way between to|) of throat-plate and loj) 
of feed-tlog when the latter is at its highest |)i)sition; then fasten np])er 
toggle in place and move it down to the lower one by means of its 
wedge, .so that (hcv touch each other. 1 1 may i)e found on testing 
them with a piece of doth that they will iwvil a trillc closer adjust- 
ment, but care must be taken that they do not press against each other 
any harder than is nt-ecssary to trim the cloth cleanly, for too much 
pressure will produce unnecessary wear and is liable to break the 
edges of the toggles. 

To adjust for width of jahric beyonil the .seam, move the whole 
toggle frame to or from the needle or line of stitching, first loosening 
the screws which hold it to bed of machine and needle bar head. 
^Yhen the desired width is obtained be sure that all screws are tight. 

To adjust needle uHli looper, when the needle bar is at its lowest 
point, and the looper is at its extreme backward throw, the point of 
the looper .should be nine thirty-seconds of an inch from the needle, 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 33 



and in its forward throw slioiild pass tlic hack sidi' of needle as closely 
as possible and not tonch it, and in its liackward tiirow the needle 
should just clear the hack sifle of loo])er. 'The adjustment of this 
rocking motion of loopcr is hv means of set screws in the looper rock 
shaft fork whiih secures it to the rock shaft. The lateral adjustin(>nt 
of the looper is hy the connectin<; rod from lower arm of needle har 
lever to the. looper holdi'r. After loosening the check nuts at eacii 
end of this rod, wliicli has a right and left hand thread at the ends, 
a slight turn in one direction or the other will move the looper to oi- 
from the needle. The needle .should ]>v adjusted with the deep 
groove towards the operator, and of such a iieight that the eye will 
he ahout three thirty-seconds of an inch helow the looper when the 
latter's point is just hack of the needle. In most cases this adjust- 
ment of needle and looper will ensure tiie mo.st favorable conditions 
for taking the loops of tiu'cad, hut some unusual conditions of thread 
or faliric mav re([uire a slight modification, and this nuist then ln'- 
come a matter of the adjuster's own judgment. 

Tcii.siaiis. In this machine the lower tension should he looser 
than the up|)er, hut the proper adjustment of either one will be found 
to vary with the quality of fa))ric'. That of a Iiard or non-elastic 
nature recjuires, and will stand, a tight tension, varymg with the 
strength of the thread. In st'wiug on knit goods of an elastic nature, 
the object is, of course, to [iroduct' a .seam which will he strong and 
at the same time just as elastic at the material itself, and it is obvious 
that the latter result cannot he ohtaine<l with too tight a tension. A 
good test to determine the proper position of the tensions is to exam- 
ine the seams after sewing: if the seam gaps or opens on pulling the 
two pieces of cloth apart then tension is not tight enough, and if on 
pulling it lengthwise of the seam the threads break the tension is not 
loose enougli. 

Take-up. This part operates to take u|) the slack of, and cast 
off at the proper time, the lower or looper thread. The adjustment 
of the cast-off fnnrtiou will he fouml by raising or lowering the retain- 
ing wire, the ])oints of wliich have their posiliim in the central groove 
cf take-up. 

To Adjust Nipper Springs. These serve to hold the looper 
thread tighter than the tension discs will do at the time of setting the 
stitch; they should close and nip the thread just as the take-up comes 



34 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



up between the tlii(;i<l cvclcfs ami (niiclies the thread; again, when 
tlie looper lias reached the end of its haekwanl throw and is ready to 
come hack, the nipper siring should he closed. If greater elasticity is 
ilcsinil, adjust llic s]iriug lo nip a iilllc later, hy means of tlie adjust- 
ing sere w in the lug directly underneath the free end of ni])per s])riiig. 
By raising or lowering this screw the ui])per spring is made to nip the 
thread earlier or later, as desinil. l'>i>th of these parts — take-up and 




Fig. 18. Mrrrow riuln CrorlH^l Niachlni'. 



nipper si)ring -are sensitive lo a large degree, and should not he 
mo\ed unless the adjnslcr is sure there is a reason for so doing. 

ThcWillcox & (jibbs"Ovcrl()ck" machine, (see Fig. 5) eomhiiies, 
in one complete wliole, the necessary nu'chanism to pro(hiee in one 
o|)eration a liimmed, joined, and covered seam, and makes tlie "( )ver- 
lock" stilch. in a|)pcaraiicc it is a radical departure from the long 
aeeeptetl type of sewing niaehiiie, cliielly owing to the ahsence of the 
familiar overiianging arm. 'i'liis novel di'sign is not unpleasing, 
liowever, and the luaihine is very strong and eonipaet. 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 35 

All the operating parts of the machine proper, are mounted on 
a single easting or frame, and this frame with its several mechanical 
functions is hinged to a plain box casting, which serves as a rigid base 
or support, and is also a receptacle for the oil which drips from the 
bearings, thus preventing an unsightly oil-soaked work table. This 
arrangement of the various parts makes them easily accessible, and 
all parts can be reached either from the top of the frame or from the 
under side, which is presented to view when the frame is raised up 
and backwards on its hinges. 

Adjustinq. ( )n the subject of a<ljusfing, in relation to this 
machine, there seems to be a scarcity of matter which may be said 
or written, for in its design several functions which in the ordinary 
sewing machine have a latitude of adjustment are here found to be 
jjositive and permit of no change whatever. About the only possible 
adjustments are those for the length of feed, or stitch, the width or 
bite of scam, or over-edge, and the lower trinnner l)lade; also to a 
limited extent the tensions. The take-up and pull-off functions are 
positive and admit of no change. 

Tension. In all sewing machines there is probably no one 
feature so extremely .sensitive, or which, if changed ever so slightly, 
j)roduces poor results so (piickly as the tensions. When trouble is 
traced to the tensions, the first act should be to draw the discs apart 
and l)low out the lint so that the di.scs may come closely together and 
not be hindered, by bunches of lint, from pinching the threads and 
doing their full duty. Other tlian this, HttK' lroui)le may be experi- 
enced with the tension niechanisiii. 

With the"( )verlock" machine all of the tension nuts are restricted 
in their movement to less than one full turn, .so it is evident that no 
very great error can result from poor adjustment within this limit. 
Furthermore, as the pidl-off and take-up functions are constructed, 
any degree of tension that may be necessary to meet the different 
re(|uirements of the stitch on light to heavy fabrics are found within 
this comparatively small range of tension movement. 

Width of Scam. The adjustment for width of trimming or bite 
has been made semi-automatic; that is, it is operative within certain 
predetermined limits at the will of the operator, and while the ma- 
chine is in motion, This is accomplished in a very convenient manner 
by means of a treadle connection to the trimmer adjusting arm, which 



36 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



wlicii :i(tiiiit('(l .serves to ;ilttr tlie [KPsilioii of llic triimiiiii;^ parts in 
relation to tlie line of lieeille ])imetlires. 

This feature of the niaciiine eiiahles an operator to complete a 
{jarnient with seams wiiieh vary in strenfjth as reipiired in dillerent 
parts of tile fahrie. For exam|)lo, a seam wliicii is made along the 
side of a sleevi- or drawi-r le<; will he stronger than one made across 
the top or shonlder of a shirt, ])roviding no change; is made in the 
machine. In the lirst instance, the stitching is with the wale, or 
lengthwise of llic fai)ric, where there is no tendency of the knitting 




I'it". rj. Two-Tliroad ( 'rochet Finish ou \'iry Kough KdgL. 



stitches to ravel out, so that a ininnnnm width of seam or trim cini lie 
emploved. 

In seaming across the top or .shonlder, and around arm-holes or 
gussets, the stitching is lai<l either .s(Hiarely or diagonally across the 
ends of the wales, where the knitting loops arc expo.sed and extremely 
liable to imravel if not jiroperly secured; tlierefore a wider seam is 
necessary. ^^ hen it is desiicd to use this width-changing feature of 
the macliiiie a tlnimii-]>in is inserted in one of a series of holes in the 
trimmer-adjusting arm, hack of a stationary stop, and when it is 
against the stoj) this |)in is a limit for the narrow .seam. Another 
thmnli-pin placed in a hole in front of the stop, as far away as is 
necessary, to give the reipiircd change, will he a limit for a w idc scam. 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



37 



In operation this trimmer adjusting arm is held normally in posi- 
tion for a narrow seam by a spring, and when the treadle is depressed 
the trinuning parts are moved to the position for a wide seam. 

Setting the Trimmer. In setting the trinnner blades for seam- 
ing, the cutting edge of tlie lower blade should be adjusted even with 
the top of the throat-plate, or needle-hole piece. For concealed stitch 
hemming this blade must be a trifle higher, and for both purposes the 
cutting edge of tJie upper l)]ade nnist pass by that of the lower one a 
sufficient distance to ensure clean cutting of the fabric. The position 
of the upper blade is deterniine<l by a stop, so there is small chance 
for error. It is verv essential tiiat tiu- tiininiing l)lades sh(nild be 







1 


% 


% 


1 








..-. ^-j--'.. 


'•' ' ' - ■ ,,- 


-. ■ '^-'■^'■•^^^J^:^ 


m 


^ 



Fig. 30. Single Thread Crocliet Finish, Hemming Edge. 

kept siiarp, for if they are allowed to licconic (hill no cud cjf aniiovance 
and bad work will ensue. 

Sharpening the Cutters. That the blades may be ground accu- 
rately there is furnished with each plant of "Overlock" machines a 
trimmer blade grinder. ( )n the slide of this little machine a set of 
grooves has been milled to tit the respective upper and lower trimmer 
blades, and when in position the blades are held and presented to the 
emery wheel so as to give their cutting faces the proper angles. In 
shaping the ends of the blades be careful to have them fit the templets 
on the slide of blade grinder. 



38 



KMT GOODS FINISHING 



MKKKOW KNIT (JOODS FINISHING MACHINES 

Till- Mcrrow Plain Croclict MiicliiiK's, a type of wliidi is ilhis- 
tratc'd ill Fij;. IS, arc iikkIc in scvrral styk's cadi aduptcil (o |)n)(liice 
a croclii't linisii upon tlic cdf^cs of various fahiics. Some of tlie 
finishes from llic dilVcront styles of Plain ( rocliei Macliiiics are illus- 
trated ill Fii;s. 1!) and I'd. 

'Pile Mcrrow Scallop or Shell Stileh Machine illustralcd in Fij;. 
21 produces the two thread shell stitch finish about half an iiieli ilwp. 




'.wJ>/// (I: 



Klg. 31. Merrow Scallop orSliell Stitch Machine. 

"^Phis [inisli is heautifiil aixl sulistanlial and is u.scd upon a great 
variety of fabrics such as heavy knit goods, eidcrilown garments, etc. 
I''ig. 22 represents tlie shell stitcli fini.sli, full size, as made l>v the 
machine on knit goods. 'Pliis macliiiic is used (o pruilncc shells of 
two, three or four stitches each as a foundation finish, ii|)on the edge 
of which a smaller shell finish is later made liy another style of shell 
machine 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



39 



The smaller shell finish made by a variety of this machine, upon 
the eflge of knit ojoods, is used separately for binding the edges of 




Fig. 33. Shell Stitch Finish. Full Size 



iiii:lit-\veiirht troods. On many classes of knit underwear two or more 




Fig. 23. Merrow Twu-XhrLaU Tniummt; ;iud ovcr-Sf aming Machine. 



courses of this fini.sh can be used to great advantage. Braid, tape 
or ribbon is sometimes drawn under the foundation finish. 



40 KMT (JOODS FINISHING 



'J'lic Mnrow Two Thread Tiimining and Ovcrseaming Ma- 
cliiiie, illii.stnilcd in Fig. 23, is primarily dcsigiu'd for oversoaniiiig 
two or more pieces of faliric togetiier, and is provided wifii triiiiniiiig 
devices for ciittinLC otV tlie edges of the goods siiniihaiieously, aii<l in 
advance of the overseaining operation, when overseaniing, and for 
trimming ofi' tlie siirphis material at the edge of tlie goods, wlien edg- 
ing, and is also ])rovided with devices for controlling the edge of the 
fai)rie in advance of the edging operation, and to facilitate the finish- 
ing of cnffs and other tnhnlar goods. A variety of this machine pro- 
duces a three thread overseam stitch which is especially desirahlc as 
an edge finish. 

Another style of machine is for ])rodncing the hlind stitch hem 
on the bottoms of shirts, etc., snch as lleece-lined goods; whik- still 
another is especially adapted foi' producing the hlind stitch hem upo"^ 
the tops of stockings. 

PLAIN FINISHING AlACHINES 

Operating and .Adjusting. In the proces.ses of trinuning or finish- 
ing vests, .shirts and drawers, the .sewing machines u.sed for the.se pur- 
poses, as well as those for tlie making or .seaming operations, have 
now been brought to a high stale of |>erfection, and the results ob- 
tained are verv artistic and pleasing. ^^ hilc the obstacles to be over- 
come ill iliis liraiicli of the wnvk are not so numerous or as difficult as 
in .seaming, thev arc oftentimes troublesome, an<l the final a|)pearance 
of the garment de]K'nds largely on the manner in which these machines 
are kc])t up to a pro|)cr perforuuuice of tlieir woi-k. 

Ill a general wav, a few jxiiuts in these finishing t)perati()ns may 
be mentioned which seem to need particular attention. In the matter 
of fec<liug, for instance, if the material conies out having a puckered 
appearance, cither in stitching on the li.iiids or facings, init es|)ecially 
in binding, a truly finished effect is ab.M-nt, arxl the cau.se of such work 
mav often be traced to a jjoorly-working feed, .\gain, a machine may 
be making an excessively coar.se stitch, which on fine garments, e.spe- 
ciallv, is xcry unsightly. This, of course, is easily reniediiil, and after 
the proi)er mimbiT of stitches to an inch is once decided upon, care 
should be taken to see that this standard is adhered to. 

The size of the nceille also plays a part in the general elfeet, for 
,1 rii'cdle which is lai'^er than ih,' thre.id caiK for, leaves holes in the 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 41 

comparatively hard facing or hand fabric which the thread does not 
fill lip properly, and oftentimes gives the impression that the holes 
have been made for rivets, with the rivets left out. 

Another point which is more of an intlividual than general nature, 
depending largely on the character of stitch marie hy the machine in 
use, IS the laying of the stitch on the luuler side of the fabric, or inside 
of the garment. 

In every machine, whether it makes the lock, single chain or 
double chain stitch, there is a specific method of drawing up the 
thread on the under side, and perhaps this point in the adjustment 
of a machine may be called the nK)st important of all, for the design 
of the whole machine is dependent and made subordinate to the one 
feature of making the stitch, and surely a sightly appearance on the 
reverse side is just as important as it is to have the upper side correct. 
Then, also, if either of the threads is not drawn up properly a greater 
quantity of thread than necessary is being usetl. 

In the lock-stitch, which lays but a single thread on both sides, 
it is, of course, possible to obtain a like effect on the top and bottom, 
antl that very easily, through the medium of tensions, provided all 
other functions of the machine are in normal condition; Owing to 
the old drawback, the winding of bobl)ins, .always present in a machine 
of this kind, and their comparative slow .speed, lock-stitch or shuttle 
machines are seklom used in finishing operations. It cannot be 
ilenied, however, that this stitch is strong enough for the purpose, not 
liable to ravel out, and presents a neat appearance on both sides of 
the fabric. Several of the concerns that build this class of machines 
have expended large amounts of money and inventive energy to over- 
come their inherent defects, and with considera'ble success. The 
Wilicox (S: (libbs, Standard, Wheeler t's: ^^ilson, and Singer com- 
panies have each recently l)n)Uglit out high-speed machines of this 
type, and in their design and construction several novel features have 
been introduced. 

The Wilicox & Qibbs Lock Stitch Machine. (Fig. 24.) The ma- 
chine built by the Wilicox & (libbs Company is built on the well- 
known Wilicox & Gilibs system, of the finest of material and work- 
manshi]), and is a long step forward in lock-stitch sewing mechanism, 
embodying high speed, perfection of stitch, perfect tension control, 
yet simple and durable, and easily adapted to handle the most deli- 



42 



KNIT (iOODS FlMSIIlNTi 



cate of fal)rics, as well as the heaviest. The other inathiiu's of tlic 
tvpe referred to also have ])oint.s of exeelleiiee, 

'riie tvpe of machine useii almost imiversaliy for liiiisiiiii<; opera- 
tions on kniKrd miderweai' is tlic one wliiili makes some form of a 
chain stitch. The reason for its n.se is tiiat the threads may he led 
to the machine and used directly from lar}i;e cones or spools, thus 
avoidinij the con.stant stoppin>j of the machine to re])lace the empty 
iHililiiiis with ni'wlv liilcd ones, as is the case with sliultlc or luck-stitcli 
machines. Tlic item of iiitcrniption in a day's woik is not incon- 
sidcral)k'. 




Kil,'. 'Jl. Wlllco.x & aibbs Lock Slltcli M.ioliine. 



Tlie mechanical (h'sij^Mi and constrnction of the chain-stitch type, 
in the matter of continuous rotary motions, and streni^tii and sim- 
plicity of parts, is more favorai)li' to lii^^li sjiccd than any lock-stitch 
type. For the.se rea.sons the chain-stitch machines are the most 
economical, hoth from the point of production, and care and expense 
of repairs. This stitch is also of advantai;e where an ornamental 
eH'e<-t is tiesired, as on vest and drawci- facinfjs, or on the etlfje of 
liindinic. 

The I nion Special l-inislicr. Tlic lini>liin^ machint' designed 
and i)uilt liv liic Inion Special Machine ( ompany has found fjreat 
favor for the latter cla.ss of work. Thev make either the two-thread 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



43 



chain or "safe elastic stitch," or the single-thread chain stitch, and 
if so desired, the two typos may he comhined in one machine, for the 
basic functions of hoth arc identical and the few necessary changes 
can be easily and (|uickiy made. This jjoint is of undoubted ail- 
vantage in the case of a small mill where the number of machines is 
limited, or when there is not enough work to wai'rant the investment 
for separate machines for eacli individual operation. In a large mill, 
however, it is much more economical to make this provision, for l>y 
so doing a machine when once adjusted to a nicety for its ])arti(iilar 




Fig. 25. Union Special Plain Fiuisbinc Machine. 



work may Ijc left so, and not re(|uire any further care from the ad- 
juster. 

One style of Union Special machine has been designed for finish- 
ing knit drawers. It is built on lines similar to tho.se just noted, and 
has the same genei'al characteristics. In .stitching on an inside band, 
where a silk finish is desired, this machine makes a beautiful, orna- 
mental stitch, greatly adding to the appearance of the garment. A 
large saving of silk is effected by using cotton thread in the needle, 
and silk, or a httiiig substitute, in tlie loopcr, care being taken to 
adjust the tensions so that tiic upper, or cotton thread, will not show 
on the under side. 



44 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

The Willcox & Qibbs Finisher. Tlic \Vill(()\ iS: (lihlj.s chaiii- 
>tit<li fiiiisliin<; iiiacliiiio ari' larj^cly used for l>iiicliii<;, Ixniif; especially 
:i(l:i|)l''<l for file [)ur])i)sc. Tliese iiiacliiiies are fiiniislied willi llie 
aiitoiiiatie tension, or with the or(hnary t'lietion discs, a tii;iit wiieel, 
or tile two tiji'lil and loose |)nl!eys for <lri\inL;, and a feed surface with 
one or two lines of teeth. 'I'hey may also he lia<l with the reiristering 
or measuriii}; tension. The ohject of tin- latter is to measure olf and 
deliver to tiie looper the exact amoniit of llncad re(|uire(l for each 
stitch, to uniforinK' liraw up each slilch to any desired ilei^rec of 
tightness, and produce sewing tiiat is perfectly smooth and even with- 
out anv care on the jiart of the opiTator. It can he readily adjusted, 
and the resulting seam w'ill he of unvarying strcngtli and elasticity. 
The thread cutter attached to tliis machine is worthy of note, because 
it prevents the characteristic tendency of this type of stitch to ravel. 
Bv its use the thre;id is cut at the end of every .seam when the work is 
taken from the machine, leaving an end of llu'cad ahont liiree-eighths 
of an inch on the under side and drawn through the last !oo|), wiiieh 
"fastens olf" the seam and prevents its ravelling. It can he made 
ilonhlv secure hy )iulling this end, which is through the last loop, 
toward the .sewing. Tli<' cutting is aceoniplislu'd hy a slight forward 
and backward movement of the hand wheel hy the operator when 
the needle is hrought to a position to allow the work to he taken out. 

The Singer ^Manufacturing Company huild a single-thread, 
chain-stitch machine, having a similar method of forming the stitch, 
which has considerahle room umler the arm. It is similar in design 
to the machines of this ty|)e which lia\e lieen deserihed, dilferiug in 
points of construction. The needle l)ar is driven hy an' upper rock 
shaft. This shaft lies hack of the head-supporting .irni, and its con- 
nection to the needle har is completely covered in tiie head. Tlius, 
no mo\ing parts are here visilite, and therefore are not lialilc to throw 
oil. The feed inccliaiiism has ])ositivc movements, and the length 
of stitch is adjusted witliout the u.se of springs. This machine is 
furnishe<l with tiie ordinarv plain friction tension or an automatic 
device. 

Adjustments and Repairs. .Ml machines of the single-thread, 
chain-stitch Ivpc arc capahle of a limited variation in laying the stitch 
through the ineiliuni of their tensions. Tli.' thread may he drawn 
closely to the faliric, thus forming a close or tight .seam, or it may be 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 45 

left ill an elastic chain as desired. A beautiful stitch, resembling 
braid may be produced by using coarse silk, which is effective as an 
ornamental finish on facings or bands. By manipulating the tensions 
in this manner, many pleasing results may be obtained with both the 
one-thread and the two-thread types of chain-stitch machines. 

In making an ornamental edge on l)inding, it is customary to 
run the braid or binding through a machine directly from the roll, 
reeling it from a full roll on a piu in front of the machine to another 
one at the back. The operator who stitches this prepared binding 
to the garment will make the fold at the line of the ornamental stitch- 
ing, thus jiresenting a silk purl on the edge. 

All of the sewing machines which we have to deal with today 
have either .spot screws or pins to confine the different parts in their 
proper functional relation with each other. This has been found to 
be absolutely necessary, and especially so with reference to high-speed 
machines; for even those built on the most scientific principles would 
become tlisarranged by a few turns at the rate of 2, .")()() or .'5,000 revo- 
lutions a minute. 

The location of the.se pins and spots on the shafts, studs, etc., is 
not determined until the most favorable relative positions of the 
several parts are fully established after many trials in the sewing-off 
or adjusting room; and when finally fixed upon these points of regis- 
tration are exactly duplicated in every machine of the type in question 
by a set of accurate jigs and fixtures, many of them costing hundreds 
of tloUars to tlesign and build. 

In liming the locpers of chain-stitch machines of the Willcox & 
(;il)bs ty])C, the eve of the neetlle should be al)out ^ of an inch below 
the under side of the looper's hook, when the needle is at its lowest 
position. Then, as the needle starts upward and the looper point 
approaches it, these two implements should pass each other as closely 
as possible and not touch, with the needle's eye about one thirty- 
second of an inch below the under side of the looper's hook. This 
will ensure time enough for the needle to rai.se and throw out a good 
loop before the looper gets to it, and a good looper will then handle 
the thread during the succeeding stages of the stitch in a satisfactory 
manner. 

//( .siitiin/ the nrrdlc, the long groove must hi' at the left, or away 
from the looper point, and its shank slioul<l rest against the bottom 



46 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

of tlu- liole ill tlic iii'cillc l);ir. If tlic cvi' of tlu- iiccillc is then not at 
its ])n)|)cr luMijlit \u rclatiim to tlic ioo|)cr, as dcscrilicd alio\c, it can 
1)1' adjusted l>y tlu' t'c-cciitric liail at the driven end of tlic ncc(ilc-l)ar 
lever. In some of these niac'liines it is jiossihlc to turn the needle in 
the bar, or the har itself, which is an advantaj^c when it is desired to 
throw the loo]) to or from the looper's point, thereliy favorinj; the 
latter a trille in handling; different ([ualities of thread. (lenerally, 
however, the loop .should tiirow, out .stpiarely with the line of 
feed. 

The looprr i.s po.sitioned in its rotary direction l)y a spot on its 
.shank which receives a .set .screw in the .shaft, and the only adjust- 
ment which is usually nece.s.sary for this implement is in its endwise 
position, to iniiiii it to or from the needle, if it seems desiralile to 
time tlu- looper a trifle <|uicker or slower, this may he aceonii)lislie(l 
by c'han<;ing the spot on its shank one way or the other with a fine tile. 
When Ihe needle and looper in this type iiiaciiine are in their 
proper relation to each other, it will be found that the tension, once 
adjnste<l, will need but very little variation. ( ari' must be taken, 
however, that it is not so tiij;lit as to destroy the elasticity of the stitch's 
varvinj; thicknesses of material or a cliaiii;eof stitch lo line or coarse, 
niav reipiire a slij^ht alteration of the tension. 

//( tliniiK/ tlic looper of the I'nion Special two-thread, ciiain- 
stitch machine, the eve of the nccillc, when in its lowest position, 
should be about ihrce-sixtcciitlis of an inch li<-lo\\ the under side of 
the looper. The shank of the needle should rest aijainst the bottom 
of the holi' in the needle-bar, with the loni; j;roove in front or towards 
the operator, and securelv fastened. If the eye is not at the projier 
heif;lit the bar can be raised orlowcrcil in its drivinfj eomicition. ('are 
shonlil be taken to use needles that are jicrfectly strai<,flit and have 
■ rood points. The size of needle is determined by the tlireail used, 
a line ihrc.'id lakiii;,' a small needle, and so on. Many times when a 
machine is workin;^ poorly, a larj^er size needle will handle the thread 
better and eliminate all the trouble. 

I'Ik' looper xlioitid lie adjusted so that its point is one fourth of 
an inch from the needle when it is at its cxtreiiie throw to the ri>,dlt, 
and, in ])assinj^ the iiccdh' on tl;e back side, thai the point will just 
clear the needle. This will ensure a ;j()od loop when the loo|)er ha.s 
advanced to meet it. \Vhen the looper makes it.s return throw to the 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 47 

right, the needle must pass tlie hack side of the looper with its point 
a httle to the rip;ht of the looper's eye, in order to take and liold this 
looper-thread until the next needle-loop is secured liy the looper, 
thereby locking or enchaining the previous stitch with the last one. 
In passing each other, the needle and looper should just clear on both 
strokes. 

These adjustments of the needle and looper may be varied a 
little to meet varying qualities of thread or material, but for ordinary 
conditions thev are correct. Enough tension should be used on both 
threads to produce an even stitch, l)nt if an clastic stitch is required 
the under tension should be considerably lighter than the upper. If 
either one fails to control the thread properly it may be found that a 
bit of lint has collected between the iliscs, thus holding them away 
from an even contact with tlu' thread. 

]]'Iicii the under thread lies straight from the heel of the looper 
to the double-wire fork, and just before the approaching edges of the 
rotary take-up touch it, the nipper-spring should hold the thread 
fairly tight, for at this point in each revolution of the machine the 
required amount of TUider-thread for the stitch is determined. If it 
is desired to regulate this, it may be done l)y means of the set screw 
in the lug on the looper-rocker, the head of which rests against the 
free end of the under nipper-spring, and taking its motion from the 
looper-rocker, serves to open and close the two nipper-springs in con- 
tact with each other. As the take-up revolves it will carry the thread 
upward and back, so that the retaining wire will catch and hold it 
until the slightly lower part of the take-up is in a position to allow the 
cast-off to take place. 

The duties which are rc<[uirc(l of a feed and pres.ser-foot in this 
work are identical in all machines, so our treatment of these two func- 
tions will apply to both of the types under consideration. 

The fnp of the feed must be level and the teeth fairly sharj), but 
with no "hooks" or "burrs'" on them. If the feed points seem io be 
too sharp, or cling to the fabric, a good remedy is to hold them against 
a revolving wire brush, just enough to smooth the points and not dull 
them materially. The rise of the feed surface above that of the cloth 
plate will vary within certain limits, according to the weight and 
texture of the material to be sewed, but for general work this should 
be about 1-32 of an inch. 



4S KNIT GOODS Fl NISII IXO 

.1 hiiK/nl prrssrr-j(it)t is tlic host for nearly all classfs (if work, 
for it ciiahlcs tiic scams of ijariiiciits to ]>ass Ix'twccii the fori! am! foot 
more siirclv, and will conform to the tii|> of the feed in any position, 
thns ensuriiifi a (irm hold on the material from a minimum amount 
of tension on the presser-har s])rinfi-. lu the ojM-ration of hindinj,^ it 
will lie found that the fee(l and press( r-fo<iI nnist he in good coTidi- 
tion, and in correct relation to eacli other, 'i'lie presser-foot must set 
sfiuarc'lv on the feed ])oints, with no side motion, and have an even 
contact on the cloth ])late when the feed has dropped for its return 
stroke. If the floods have a tendency to run off sideways, in fcodiiif; 
thr()U};h, it will prohaiily he found that .some one or more of the feed 
or pres.ser-foot conditions are not rijiht. 

General Adjustments. In the course of time, with all machines, 
it becomes neees.sary to {jive them .somethinf; more than a .somewhat 
.superficial ".setting; in order." anil a {general overhauiinp; is re(|uired. 
When one shows sijjns of excessive wear, a few new parts, and a {gen- 
eral tightening!; u]) of joints and fits will restore the machine to a more 
efficient condition. An adjuster who watches his machine closely 
will detect the wearing points about them as they begin to appear, 
and bv judicious attention here and there can postpone the time when 
a general overhauling will be necessary. 

The parts of all machines worthy of mention are manufaeturi'd 
in duplicate, .so that a new part will re|)lace one that has worn out 
without anv fitting. New |)arts may be ordered from a catalogue of 
parts pertaining to the machine in question. 

Manv of the wearing parts are provided with means for taking 
up this wear as it occurs, but in the ease of shafts and needle-bars 
this is not so, and when these parts become badly worn the only 
remedv is to replace them with new ones a Irille larger, and ream the 
holes to fit. For thi.'? purpose the shafts and bars are made in two 
or three different sizes, "ne being three or four thousandths of an inch 
larger than the original, an<l a third the same amount larger than the 
second oni\ thus pro\ iding for several renewals. 

The holes are i'nlargi-(l by an e.\|)ansion reamer, having a long 
pilot extending from both ends of the fluted cutting section. In using 
this tool care should be taken to ream the holes perfectly straight, 
and a very little at a time, in order to secure as good a fit as possible 
and keep the bearings in true alignment. 



KNIT GOODS FINISHIN'G 49 

The Union Special ('<ini|);uiy lias introduced a new method of 
mounting the nee(ile-l)a'', \vlii( li urovides for a renewal of the worn- 
out hearings, as well as the bar, and also furnishes means to take up 
a limited amount of the wear before a renewal is absolutely necessary. 
In tlie construction of these bearings the two ears, or lugs, through 
which the needle-bar passes, are drilled and reameil out at the factory 
somewhat larger than tiic liar itself, an<l a thin shell, or bushing, is 
inserted, which is then tiie biariug. This bushing, and also the en- 
circling lugs, are split on one side, and l)y means of clamping-screws 
in the latter, the bushings may be collapsed a sufficient amount to 
meet the reduced surface of the bar. In case of renewal, these bush- 
ings may be discarded and new ones in.serteil to fit an original-sized 
bar, or they may be retained and re-reamed for the next larger one, 
as in the older mcthoil. 'I'lie great advantage of the new .system 
seems to l)e the clamping feature, wliicli allows the wear to be followeil 
up as fast as it occurs. 

MISCELLANEOUS MACHINES USED IN FINISHING 
KNITTED UNDERWEAR 

There are various operations in the finishing of knitted imder- 
wear that are performed ditt'erently, and with difiVrent machines, 
according to the .system or custom in force in the mills. Some mills 
u.se for binding what is called a purl edge binding, made in the mill 
by running jilain binding of most any kind through a I'nion Special 
Single Needle Ornamental Machine, oftentimes called Binding Ma- 
chine. This machine is built on the same lines as their drawer 
fini.sher with certain minor changes, and .with attachments for holding 
and guiding so that the purl edge may be laid on in the middle of the 
binding as it pas.ses through the machine. Oftentimes the machinist 
in the mill is ingenious enough to rig up an attachment for rolling up 
(he binding as it comes from the machine. 

One of these machines arranged in the above manner, will, after 
being started, make tlic purl edge on the whole roll of binding with- 
out attention of an operator until a new roll is to be started. 

As drawer bands have to be stitched together, most mills have 
in their outfit a Ijand stitcher. Any e.xtra machine can be pressed 
into .service for this purpose, though it is preferable to have a two- 
thread machine; it is often a W. & (1. plain tension machine as any- 
thing else, and even sometimes an old line lock stitch machine. 



50 KMT (JOODS FINISHING 

A drawer strappinir uiarliini- is imijortaiit now, as many inann- 
facturiTS arc srwiiiir on suspt-ndcr straps in a durahie manner witli 
niacliines especially di'sij^iied for tliat particular j)nrpose. While 
straps liave heen sewed on w itii jihiin sin;ile. and doiilile tliread, eliain, 
and lock stiteli niaeiiines, it has al\*ays heen ap|)arent that a /.ii,'/ai; 
lock stitch was llie most desirahle. The "Standard" have a machine 
for sucii a pnr|>ose, tlie I'riion Button Sewing IMaeliine Company and 
the "Singer" have a maeiiine especially designed aiul ada|)ted for 
sewing suspender stra|)s on drawers and making stays and hars at 
re(|nire(! |)laces in union suits and ladies' vests. It fastens the strap 
securely, rapidly arnl iu a proper manner. 

Zigzag machines have heen u.setl for .several purpo.ses after l)oing 
adapted more or k'.ss to the work re(|uired such as .sewing in gu.ssets 
of drawers, such a stitch covering the raw edge nicely, hesides sewing 
it on securely, 'i'hey are sometimes used for covering tiie edge of 
the cloth left raw after rumiing the necks. Sometimes a zigzag stitch 
is u.sed with "ood ellVct on the facinsis of garments, or for making hars 
at intersections or parting of the .seani.s on drawers, union suits, etc. 

For covi'ring the raw edge after I'uniiing the neck, llie I'nion 
Special 'Fwin-Xec(lle Machine makes a i)rctty ornamental stitcii, as 
well as etfectually covering it. It has two needles and otic looper, 
leaving two parallel lines of stitching on the hack and an interwoven 
fancy stitch over the raw edge of either silk, worsted or cotton thread, 
as preferred. It is the .same stitcli as made hy the cylinder side-wheel 
covering machine, though the twin-needle machine, .so called, for 
necking, is a regular (lat machine, it is also .sometimes used for 
catstitching, or wherever a prettv onianicut;d stitch is desired. (M'ten 
it is called a Necking machine. 

Tv^in^nccdlc and hvo-Ihic marliiiics are often confounded. Two- 
line niaclnues make two .se|)aral<' rows of stitching <>n hoth hack and 
front of work, and rc(|uire two needles, two loopers or hooks, and ii.se 
four threads. Two-needle machines are hy no means Always two- 
liui- machines. For instance, the .so-called twin-nee(lle or necking 
machine, has two needles, hut only one looper, and conse<iuently runs 
hut three threads. The side wheel covering machine is similar as to 
needles, looper and numher of threads. In fact, the covering machine 
is .simply the twin-needle machine redesigned in the form of a cylinder 
machine (o facilitate the handling of the work, 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 51 



Two-line iiiacliiiics arc used wlicirvor it is desired to have a 
double row of stitehiiig, as on tlie outside of ilrawer l)and — coveriufj 
the back seam of drawers with tape — sewing on each side of tlie tape 
simultaneously, \mu'^ fitted with a device for hoidinj; and <;uidinfj; the 
tape properly. It is commonly called a Taping Machine. Wherever 
two-row work is ie(|uired, two-line machines are desirable, because 
the lines of .stitcliing are more likely to be parallel, more sightly, and 
the work turned off much quicker. Two-linQ machines arc built 
almost any widtli l)etween the rows, from .3-32 to 13-32 of an inch. 
Special widths are made from 13-32 to 21-32 of i\i\ inch. 

End sewing machines were formerly reipiircl, but where covered 
seams are made, and covered seams are almost universal, none are 
necessary. Almost any zigzag machine answers the purpose where 
such a machine is re(|uircd, though there is a machine made especially 
for this purpose. 

Hemming machines arc used for shirts or vests, on flat goods, or 
rib-tails, either looped or stitched on, take the place of the hem. On 
ribl)ed goods, the hem is made on a machine designed for the pur- 
pose, the "concealed" stitch being much in favor, though edging 
machines are u.sed for this finish in many in stances. 

THE LOOPING OR TURNINQ.OFF MACHINE 

Within the province of sewing proce.s.ses for elastic knitted fabrics, 
and the various more or less complex mechanisms with which they are 
severally executed, comes one which, in its final appearance, has the . 
most satisfactory I'fl'ect of all, from many standpoints. Yet, strange 
to say, its accomplishment is by means of a type of mechanism that is 
wholly at variance with all of the latter-day ideas which the modern 
.sewing machine calls for. We refer to the familiar process of looping 
one piece of material to another, and as is well known, the finished 
product is nearest to perfection of anything in the art of joining two 
parts of a knitted garment. 

The beautiful flat effect which is obtained bv this peculiar method, 
and the effectual merging of the sewing thread with those of the fabric 
itself are features which have effectually combined to continue this 
abnormally slow process in use at the present time. 

This looping machine — variously called loopcr, iiirning-nff ma- 
chine, or ribbcr — is extremely simple in construction, containing as 



52 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



it does (iiily llir priiK ipid fiimliUiu'iital .sewinj^-marhinc fiiiictioiis, and 
it liiis j)assi (I tliniu},'li l)ut tVw radical tliaiif^cs since its inception years 
a}?o. Indeed, it re(|iiires nu stretcli of the imaj^ination to recognize 
in its main I'cature.-^ lliose of tlie ordinal Klias Howe lioop wlieel feed 
model for a sewini; inaciiine. Even so, it is today the only practical 
ilevice which will do its work |)crfectly, owing to the prime necessity 
of lirst impaling each iiitlis idiial knitted loop of both parts of the fabric 




KIc. Sfi. Heatttc's I.oopcr or TuruingOfT MuchlDf. 



to be unili'd on a separate point or Tieedle. It is from tliis |)ecnliar 
fact that it is possible to cut, ravel, or trim, all surplus stock away from 
these loojjs l)efore proceeding with the o])eration of sewing, thus jiro- 
dncing in the opened-out joint, or seam, a result so perfect that the 
two parts thus joined will appear as one integral piece. Indeed, most 
people who wear such underwear think it is "knit that way," not 
knowing that the cloth comprising the body of a garment is knitted 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 53 

on a circular machine, niakinji; a wale on one siilc only, and the firm 
but very elastic rib or cuff is knit on what is termed a rib machine. 
(Hence the term ribber previously mentioned as applied to one ma- 
chine for joining tliese two ])arts togetiier.) The ril)-knitting machine 
is built on an entirely difl'erent plan from the circular one in that it 
has two sets of needles, and produces wales on both sides of 
the fabric. 

In the rib machine, al.so, its needles are manipulated in and out 
of the yarn loops successively, as the fabric progres.ses in groups, 
which vary in numlier according to the desired widtii of rib or cuff 
being made, and as its motions are intermittent, tlie j)rocess of mak- 
ing this part of a garment is necessarily slow. 

In the circular knitting machine the process is, as its name im- 
plies, circular and therefore continuous. 

^Vhile tiie loopcr, or turning-olV maciiine, is one where the oper- 
ator works constantly, it is al.so working constantly itself, if speeded 
to the operator's gait. To the uninitiated, looking at the operator 
sitting on a low .seat, putting the toes of a stocking, or the parts of the 
fabric to be looped, on the points of the di.sc of the machine, stitch by 
stitch, one loop on each point, it may .seem easy, l)ut it is soon apparent 
that quick and strong sight and nimble fingers are required, and also 
that the machine is capable of running much faster than the most 
expert operator can place the loops on the points in the proper manner 
to obtain perfect work. 

Other Methods of Joining the Rib. From time to time devices 
and machines have been brought out that were designed as sul)stitutes 
for, and to hasten this exceedingly slow process. Some of them have 
met with a fair amount of success for a time on certain classes of work, 
but none were acceptable on the finest grades of this fabric, so we 
still have the looping machine in almost its original form of forty 
years ago. 

Of all substitute methods and niacliiiies for this purpose, per- 
haps the most satisfactory has been the one of utilizing the"Overlock" 
stiteh. This consists of placing a row of these stitches along the 
edge of each part of the fabric, to be joined in such a manner that 
their loops form two continuous selvedges, and a subsequent opera- 
tion will join them. This method is much quicker, stronger, and 
produces the desired flat seam. 



54 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

( )llit'r (lcvi<-c.s Ikivc 1)C('|i llic so-calltil |)in-\\ liccl m\\ iiij; iiiiU'liiiies 
of (lill'cri'iit tyjx's. Ill this |)l;iii (lie laiiiiliar wliccl of |)oiiit.s to liold 
and cari'v tlic fald'ic to tlic needle was retained, Imt tlie iieei-ssity of 
inipaliiij; eacli kiiitteci looj) mi a .separate point was eliminated l)y 
providiiitj an exeeedinjjly line feed, with the result that while some of 
the luiitini; stitches would he made hetween the wales of the fahrie, 
each knitted loo|) would receive at least one. This nietliod proved 
to he a <,M'c:iI lime saver, hut lackeil the iiiiislied ap|>('araiice of the 
genuine loopinf^ method, and it is not now used to any great extent. 

Looper Trimmers. l'"or the purpose of a.ssistiiig the operator in 
her work, ami to irdiuc the amount of time nece.s.sarv for this opera- 
tion of looping, various automatic tlevices have heen introduced, 
whose ofKci' is to remove the surplus material projecting ahove the 
fee(l-wlieel points, and pre|>are the im|)aled loops of fahrie for the 
liiial sewing operation. This had pre\ioiisly heen r((|uiii'd of the 
operator herself, and while it di<l not take a great deal of her time, 
an expert heing ahlc to cut and hrush away the ravelings very ([uickly, 
these attachments did show a |)ercentage of saving hy allowing the 
o])erator to devote her whole time to im|)aling the loops of tiie fahrie 
on the loo|)er points. 

These attachments oj>erate in various ways, the most jiractieal 
emhodying a comhination of the cutting and hrushing proee.s.scs. 
They have heen arranged for use on hoth the old-style looper and 
several of the snhstiliile pin-wheel machines. 

StraiglU-ISecl and Circular Loopers. For convenience in handling 
the various ela.s.se.s of undergarments during the looping proee.s.s, 
looping machines are made in two forms. One with a .straight heel 
on which a row of work-holding points are mounted to project along 
one of its sides, and having the stitch-making group of parts a.s.semhled 
on a traveling carriage. This form of machine holds the work 
stationarv while the iieedle-looj)er, etc., are automatically moved 
along the hed from point to point after each stitch is I'ompletiHl. 

The other form of machine is a circular one, in which the work- 
holding points are mounted to project from the periphery of a di.sc 
ahout eighteen inches in diameter. In operation this di.sc is given 
an automatic rotary feeding motion on its axis after the completion 
of each stitch. Thu.s it will be seen that the operating functions of 
the proecss in the two forms of machine arc e.xaetly in reversed order, 



KNIT GOODS FINISHIXG 



55 



one holding the work in position, while the stitches are inserted pro- 
gressively along the prepared edge of the material, and the other 
proceeding reversely to carry the prepared edge to, and by a stationary 
group of stitch-forming implements. The first, or straight-hed form 
is more peculiarly adapted for use on what is called "full-fashionetl" 
garments, and the circular form is most generally used for "cut 
goods." 

Character of the Stitch. In both forms of machine the stitchine 
functions are practically alike, and produce the same finished result. 
By different arrangt'ments of these j)arts in their relation to each 
other, and to the automatic fce<l, as to time, etc., several styles of 
stitch may he obtained, such as tlu> "single stitch," "under and 
over," and "through and through" or "double stitch," and may use 
one or two threads, each style of stitch having its peculiar advantage 
for the work in hand. In some makes 
of machine the needle,! always a curved 
one), works from the inside or butt end 
of the points, outward, and others work 
in the reverse direction. 

Operation. In setting up the cir- 
cular looping or "turning-olf" machine, 
it must be fa.stened securely to a good 
table, similar in construction to the . „ ^ 

Fig. 37. Lonper Points. 

ones used for sewing machines. It 

need not be as wide, however, as it is never rc(|uireil fur hoUling the 
work during this operation, and also because the full diameter of the 
disc, and .several inches more must overhang the table's edge so as 
to be sure and provide amijle space for the work to revolve while 
depending from the feed points. 

The two pieces to be sewed together or loo[3cd are fastened to 
the di.se, so that one of the points shall pass through each of two 
courses of loops near the raw edges of the fabrics, which are in posi- 
tion with their faces together. 

The rotation of this di.se will then bring each pair of loops in 
succession to a point of e.xact registration with the neetUe, which 
travels in the arc of a circle directly over and parallel with each point 
when in this position. A groove or depression in the top of the points 
will allow the thread-carrying needle to enter each pair of loops, and 




5G KNIT (iOODS FIXISIIIXG 

ill (■oiiiunction witli a ]>rii])ci-ly slia|)cil l(«i|)cr, wliiili ti|icnit('.s in time 
to meet the needle's thread, tlie twii I'alirie loops are securely and 
almost iMi|>eree])(ilily joinecl. 

In ordei- thai the machine may o])erate snccessful'y and per- 
t'ectlv, it is necessary to li'im lli<' raw edi^'es of material down to liie 
looj)s that are im|)ale(l n|)on the points. Unless tiiis is done and all 
the raveled threads and loose waste lie removed before jjassini; under 
the nee(lle, the seam will lie maile with an unsij^ditly welt. 

The speed of the maelniie i.s limited to the ahility of tiie operator 
in pnttiiifi the loops of fahrie on the points, and with tho.se who are 
most j'X})ert it can never l)c run more than 'MM or 400 stitches per 
minute. 

Adjustments. If tlie machine .skips .stitclies, examine th<- iiee<lle. 
If broken or damaj^ed beyond ri'pair, replace with a new one. if the 
point is dull make it over with an oil stone, care beinj^ taken to have 
ihe lci\v<'r side as hjw as possible, so as to cnsui'c its cntcriuti' the loop. 
See that (he jioint of the needl<> registers exactly over the center of 
each iioint. Ski])ping is also often due to tlie liook or loo])er getting 
oul of adinstment. When taking the looper from the needle, the 
looper must slightlv rub the neiMJle when pa.ssing over it. The needle 

niav mo\e t piicklv or too slowly and thus be out ot time with th<' 

looper. When jirojicrlv timed, the needle's point in entering the looj) 
on th<- hook >h(iuld be one-sixteeuth of an inch from the hook, and 
just clear the hi'cl of the looper. The hook, after ])assing away from 
the needle, will again move forward and pass under the needle, just 
touchint; it. 'i'he hook will be about one-eighth of an inch from the 
point brass wlii'ii it is at its lowest drop. 1 1 is \ cry essential to have 
the hook jicrfcctly smooth and of such a shape as to kecj) the looji of 
ihi-cad from drojijiing oil', and also to allow it to sli]) oil' easily before 
the needle enters the new loop. Keep the thread taut <luring the 
lime ihe needle is pa.ssing throngli llic lodp. IIa\e ihe ihrcad rather 
liMi line than to(; coarse for the needle. 

/// (irdcr III nj)l(i<c a point, remove the brass section thai covers 
the basi' of ihc impcrl'e<'t one, and remove it w ilh a <|nick pull njiward, 
thus preparing the groove for the new point. Place the new point in 
position, and with a small staking tool drive it to its .seat, then with a 
hammer smooth the bra.ss down around it, and finally rc-placc and 
secure the eoveriiig l)rass in position. 



Knit goods finishing 



57 



The sewing mechanism must he timed with the paints on tlic large 
disc, and if not exactly right tlieir relative position may he changed 
by loosening the set screws in the main arin of the maehiTie, and mov- 
ing the disc to its proper position. 

NAPPING KNIT GOODS 

Brushing. Brushing is generally done in a machi-ne similar to 
the one shown in Fig. 2S. Many grades of goods are thns made to 
present a niucli more sightly and .saleable appearance by being run 
through the garment brushing machine wliicli raises tlic stock a 




Fig. 28. Glirnielit Urushilig MiicltiiR-. 



little and gives llic garment a soft and loftv feel and a more wooly 
appearance. It is customary to l)rusli only the outside of the gar- 
ment, but in some instances it seems desirable, for selling purposes, 
to brush both outsitle and inside, and in other in.stances it is run 
through the l)rush('r twice to get more of tlie woolly appearance. 
The.se m;ichines arc not intended to tear up a nap like napping ma- 
chines do, the roils being made witli stout, stiff bristles — instead of 
wire card clothing — that rai.ses a light nap which has a tendency to 
give cotton or mixed goods more the appearance of wool. The 
proce.ss and the machine are .shown in the illustration, and the samples 
of cloth shown intlicate or illustrate the difference in appearance be- 
fore and after brushing, the wale of tlie cloth being almost covered 
up by the nap after brushing. 



58 KNIT GOODS FINISHING 

Napping. A tlircail is tied into tlic fabric- wlwu it is l)eing 
knitted, for tlic c'.\|)ITss pnrposi' of inakinj; tiu- nap, l)Ut it does not 
irally form a part of tlic fabric. ( )n i^oods wlicrc tiic nap is workwl 
out of tiic fal)ric, withniit lliis l)a<-kinj; tlircad looped in, it really 
destroys niiieli of the strength and dnraliiiity of the falirie, hence the 
introduction of the hackinif thread. 

The fjreat ohji'ction to na|)pin;;' on nnderwear is the tendency 
of the small iihers to mil n|) into hnn])^, and to liecome detachecl fi-om 
the fahrie in use, or to aecuinulatc- into hard hMn|)s in washinj^. A 
clo.sc felted nap docs not exhibit this tendency in so f;reat a dej^ree 
as one that is lonj^ and conihed out. 

Till' jir.sl iKippcrs used on un<lir\vear made the nap hy hrushing 
with a ra])idlv rcvolvin^i; cylinder covered with a coni])aratively long 
.straij^ht tooth clothing; which had a tendency to cut the loops and 
drag out the lii)ers into a long, hairlikc Heeoe. This was objection- 
able on account of the amount of flocks detached from the fabric 
and the lendencv of the nap to roll up or "pill," and led to the use of 
the teasle gig, similar to those for finishing woven fabrics. This 
graduallv worked out a shurtei-, rcit-like na|), but was too slow and 
expensive, and the teasles were su|)erseded by wire clothecl gig nap- 
pers. The.se are of two kinds, siiKjIv ucliiu/ (jit/n and duublv aci- 
imj gt(/.s. 

The xiiK/lr cicliiKj (jiij has a number of rolls journaleil in a vv- 
volving cvlinder and eoNcreil with wire clothing, all the points being 
bent in one direction. Means ar<" |)rovided for turning the rolls on 
their axes independent of the moxcnient of the gig. This was an 
adxantage over the brusher but is no longer iise(l for underwear, as 
till' double acting machine is better. 

The (loiililr artiiKj iiidcliiiii' has the gig lolls in ])aiis, and a separ- 
ate motion is pro\ideil for conti'olling each set so that tliev can be 
driven at different s])eeds, or, as c()ni|)ared with each other, in diiferent 
directions. 

The clothi'n;/ also is of different shape, usually being straight or 
with a verv slight pitch on one set of rolls and ha\ iiig a knee or sharp 
bend forward on the other set. The straight tooth or "carrier" rolls 
handle the cloth and hold it against the action of the bent tooth or 
"worker" rolls. 'IMiey al.so help to relea.se the fahrie from the work- 
ers. The workers .scein to dig into the fabric a certain distance when 



KXIT GOODS FINISHING 



59 



the action of the carriers release their hold on tlic t'aliric and by repeat- 
ing this movement rapidly work out the Hhers of the yarns composing 



the fabric, into a short heavy nap. 




p. 

V, 



On the Staft'onl &: Holt Napping Maciiinc, of which Fig. 29 is 
a view of the driving end, the gig runs contra-clockwi.se, or the top 
of the gig runs over toward the side where the cloth is fed in. The 
roils in the gig ttn-n in tlie opposite direction, that is, in a direction 
tliat will carry thi' cloth tln-ouuii the niachinc. Tlic bent tooth rolls 



f.O KNIT GOODS FIXISHING 

are govcriifd l>v a large internal ijoar on tiu' drivintr ciiil of tlic inaciiiiie 
and the straight tooth rolls are fjjoverncd l)y tiic internal gear on the 
opposite end of the gig. The function of the straight tooth roils is 
to hold the cloth wliile tlie hent tooth rolls act upon it. They should 
he given enough speed to keep the cloth just slightly strained around 
the gig. A large change gear on the fceil shaft loosens th<' cloth and 
a smaller one tighten.s it. 

With a 9()-tooth gear on the sprocket stud it would re(|nire from 
a Is to a .')()-tooth gear on shaft. The napping is done j)rincipally 
l»v the hent tooth "worker." With a 1 lO-tootli gear on the sprocket 
stud, and a compound intermediate of .')2 and 2(1 it would refpiire 
from a oO to a 21 ]>inion on the shaft for napping. The smaller the 
])ini()n the harder it will nap, say ^IS into .')2 and 2ti into 111), the 
.")2-2() being the com]K)un(l inl<'rmediate, to he varied as reipiired for 
the iliti'erent fabrics and the character of the nap. 

Napping "flat" goods, "straight-ribbed" goods and "jersey- 
ribbed" goods (or "fleece backs" and "plush backs") is better accom- 
plished on planrlari/ nappers, because they make a much shorter, 
thicker, and more evenly distributed nap than regular na])pers, and 
give a more velvety feel. The nap obtaiiuMi by this means is innili 
le.ss matted into knots or l)unches by rubbing or washing, and the 
fabric handles nuich thicker and fuller, even after washing and u.se. 

Planctarji nappvrs contain, principally, a napping drum, a cloth 
feed roll, a series of napping-rolls mounted upon the drum and con- 
taining ])oiTits incliiic(l in the direction in which tlu'v act upon the 
cloth; crimjicr-rolls containing ])ractically straight points mounted 
uj)on the napping drum and interpo.sed in the .series of napping-rolls, 
and a tension roll arranged to act on the cloth in ailvance of the nap- 
|)ing action. 'I'lie })lnrality of .series of nap-treating members are 
moimted upon the drum, so arranged that a dillVrenlial action is 
produced between the members of one series and the nimdiers of 
another .series. The result of this action on the cloth is .somewhat 
analogous to felting, inasmuch as the napper rolls raise the nap, and 
the other series of rolls .serve to bend or crimp the fibers and drive 
them in making a fell or "lleece." 

The mechanical construction of the David (lessner nap|)er is 
described and illn^trali'il to make the operation clear and compre- 
hensive. 




X 
u 

< 

s 

a 

z 

? ^ 
< a 

z 



1/5 



V 



O •3 
O " 



a 






KMT GOODS FINISHING 



61 



Referring to Figs. 30, ol, ol2, and 33. The frame is eomposed 
of the upright end ])ieees 1 1', eoiuieeted at the hottoiu hy tlie girders 




2 2', which are united again crosswise hy brackets or stays 41 and 
41', and at the top by the girders .53 and .")3 ' and carries upward 



62 KNIT GOODS FIXISHIXG 

extensions 1"' V iiml liorizont;!! iiiciiiIxt 1', and a yoke on tlic side, 
jiarked I'. 

Nutnlicr •) is tlic main siiat't, rarrvinjj; tlic lii'ads re, on tiie outer 
pi'iipliery of wliicii arc nionnteii (lie napping-njlis a and tlie contact- 
rollers h, wliich arc callccl "rriinpcr-rolls," l)ecanse tlicir contact 
afjainst tlic ends of tlu' na[)|)C(l til)crs serves ti> licnd oi' crini[> (lie 
fibers witii a residt wliicii is analogous to felting. 

Nunii)cr 4 is the fast pulley, hy wliicii the main shaft 
is (lri\cii, and .') is tlic loose jiullcy. (i is a pulley, fast on 
the main shaft, from which liy the belt ')2 is driven a pulley 
52°, fast on the inside of pulley 4!), from wlii<h the shaft 47 is 
drix'cn tln-unuh the licit .")() and jmllcy.')!. 'I'lic stripper mil or fancy, 
48 is fast on the shaft 17. 

The iitijipiiKi-rDlla II are covered w itli canl clothing, the |)oinls (jf 
which are inclined in the direction in \vhi(4i they act U])on the cloth. 
The crini|)cr-i'olls li are coxcred with card clothing having straight or 
ra<lial points. The iiai)i)ing rolls, at their ])oinls of contact with the 
cloth, move in non-uni.son with the cloth, .so that their points rai.se 
the nap. 'ihc two .series of rolls act dill'erciiliMlly, the nap|)ing .series 
serving, as it wcic, to cdiiiIi unt the nap and the crim|)er series serving 
to crimp or felt the nap. 

The incfluuilsiii for ilncnii/ tin ikijijk r-rolls ii <-onsists ot the 
disc 7, fast to the main shaft '■'>, the Kelt S and the conical roller !) 
co-operating with the disk, the shaft 10, u])on which the conical roller 
is mounted, having its hearings in the l)ra(4\ets 11 and ]'_' and carry- 
ing at its lower end the pinion l.'i, which drives the gear 11, fast n|)on 
the counter-shaft l.'i. l'])on this counter-shaft arc (ixcd, on the in- 
side of till' frame, sprocket-w lie(4s Hi, Hi, (tlieic being one for I'ach 
end of the machine) from wlii(4i, through the sproeket-i'hains 17, are 
driven the sprocket-wheels IS, IS, (there being one at each end of the 
napping-cvlindcr), fast to the spiders I'.l. which carry the b(4t 20, 
which pa.sses around the .series of pulleys <;', a' on the ends of the 
.shafts «■' of the workers a. Wv raising or lowering the belt S any 
desired speed mav be given to the workers a for iiareasing or decreas- 
ing their napping eaoaeity inde|)endent of tlie speeil at which the 
cloth may be running, and independent of the speed at which the 
travelers b mav be running, and independent also of (he speed at 
which the main shaft is running. 



KNIT (JOOUS FIXISIIIXG 



63 




64 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



The mcchdni.sm for drivini/ the cloth-feed rolls, i)f which 31 is one, 
is as follows: 21, 22 and 23 are sprocket-wheels fast to the main siiaft. 
21', 22', and 23' are correspond injj; sprocket-wheels fast to the 




counter-shaft 24. 4.") is the sprocket-chain, l>y shiftinj; which from 
one pair of .said .sprocket-wheels to another the speed of the counter- 
shaft 24 may he vari(>d with respect to the speed of the nappinjif- 
cylinder. 2.") is a pinion fast on the shaft 24 and whiih drives a ^ear 



KNIT (iooDS FINISHING 65 

26, fast on the shaft 29. Tlie pinion 27 is fast to the gear 26 and 
drives the gear 28, fast on tlie shaft oO, to which shaft the cloth feed 
roll 31 is fast. On the opposite end of the shaft 30 is fixed the sprocket 
46, from which may be driven all other cloth feed rolls in the machine. 

The entrance tension-roll 60 is tlriven as follows: On the shaft 30 
of the rear tlraft-roll 31 is fast a sprocket-wheel 61, which tlrives a 
chain 62, which drives a sprocket 04, fast on a shaft 65, carrying a 
cone 67, which drives a l)elt 08, which drives cone 69, fast on shaft 70 
of the entrance tension roll 60. The chain-idler 63 serves as a take-up 
for chain 62. By shifting the belt 68 on the cones 67 and 69, the 
speed of the entrance tension-roll 60 may be varied at will relatively 
to the speed of the other feed-rolls and traveler-rolls. This adjust- 
ment is a feature of the utmost importance, because it vastly increases 
the scope of the machine with respect to the range of materials which 
may be successfully treateil by the workers a. ¥oy the purpose of 
enabling this adjustment to be made while the machine is running, 
and to be regulated to a nicety, the following mechanism is provided, 
whereby the operator may shift the belt 68. 71 and 72 are belt-forks 
fastened to the carriage 73, which is made to slide upon ways on the 
bracket 74, fast to bracket 41. By a screw-spindle 76, with hand 
wheel 75, nut 77, fast to carriage 73, is moved so as to shift said forks 
and belt 68 at will by the operator while the machine is running. 

By the adjustment last described the tension of the fabric Ijeing 
treated can be regulated to suit verv tender fal)rics, which bv too irrcat 
a tension are liable to be torn or stretched and narrowed, and by too 
little tension are liable to be dragged forward by the workers a, and 
thus slacked up in a manner causing disaster. 

The mechanism for driving fhc crimper-rolh- b is as follows: I'pon 
the opposite end of the shaft 29 from the gear 26 is fixed a pinion 32, 
which drives a gear 33, turning upon a stud 56. The gear 34 is 
fastened to the gear 33 and drives gear 35, fixed on the shaft 36, 
having its bearings upon stays or brackets 41 and 41°. The pulleys 
37, 37, are fixed on the shaft 36 and drive the belts 38, 38, which 
extend around the pulleys b at opposite ends of the crimper- 
rolls b. These belts 38, 38, run under the idlers 39, 39, and over the 
idlers 43, 43, respectively, so as to substantially encircle all of the 
travelers b. Whenever the chain 45 is shifted from one pair of 
sprocket-wheels to another for the purpose of varying the speed of 



6f) KMT COODS FlMSlllNC 



the clotli relatively to the .s])ee(l of the main shaft, a corresponding 
variation will he prodnetMl in the speed of the belts 38, 3S. There- 
fore anv chanjie in the speed of the cloth feed rolls, as 31, will i)e 
accompanied i)_v a eorresponding <h:inj;e in the speed of the crimper 
rolls /;. 

In the particnlar form of this machine the mechanism ahove 
described is so proportioned that the surface speed of the clotli feed 
rolls, as 31, is substantially the same as the surface .speed of the 
crimper rolls /*, which surface speed of the crimper rolls b is the 
resultant between the speed of the crimper rolls b upon their own 
axes and the speed at which they are carried bodily by the cylinder- 
heads c. In other words, if tlu' diameter of each jJuUey // is the same 
as the diameter of their respective crimper rolls /; the belts 38, 38, 
niav have substantially the same speed as that at which the cloth 
being treated is traveling; through the machine. 

The relationship between the .speed of the crimper rolls and of 
the feed is maintained constant in the operation of the machine not- 
withstanding and independently of any variation which may be made 
in the s|)ced of the working rollers a or of the nuu'n shaft, 'ilic shaft 
2!) constitutes a common actuator for the cloth feed rolls and the 
crimper rolls. The connections between this connnon actuator 29 
and the cloth feed rolls, as 31, are invariable. Likewi.se the con- 
nections between this connnon actuator 21t and the < liniper-rolls b 
are invariable, so that for a given s])ced of this conunon actuator a 
corres])ou(ling spc'cd will be conuinmicatcd both to the crimjx'r rolls 
and the cloth feed rolls, and the s|)cc(l of one will be insai'iablc with 
respect to the .speed of the other. In the connections, ht)wever, by 
which the connnon actuator is driven the shifting of the sprocket- 
chain 4.") affords a speed adjustment whereby the speed of the common 
actuator 29 mav be varied with respect to the sp<'cd of the other parts 
of the machine. 

The bell .'iS can be taken up and tightencil by turning the hand- 
wheels SO, which are screw-threaded to the rods 81, that engage, 
respectively, with the swing-amis 82, which arc loosclv momited on 
.shaft 3r) and carry on their free ends the idlers 1/!. 

The broken line (/ indicates the cloth being Ireatetl. In leaving 
the napping-roUs it passes under a roll 55, fast to the two idlers 39, 39, 
and turne<l with them at the same surface .speed as the surface speed 



KXIT GOODS FIMSHIXG 



67 



of the cTimpor rolls I, ],y tin- power of l)flts :«, 3,S. Tlieiici- it passes 
under and partly arouiiil the feed-roll 31, under the weightetl roll 54, 




upward and over the driven feed roll 57, over the idler 58 (overhead 
of the operator) and driven feed roll oO, whence it is delivered 



68 KNIT (iOODS FIMSIIING 

through the folder .'>•(' licliinil (lie ojx'iatdr. The cliMin '.Mi i> helil 
taut by the idler (11 and drives the shaft (13, to which the fird roll 'u 
is fixed. Theme the driving j«)wer is transmitted through chain 91' 
to shaft 94, on which feed-roll 59 is fixed. Tiience the driving powc-r 
is applied to vil)ratiM<,' the folder 'li*" through the wheel '>'f and con- 
necting-rod o'.Y. 

The cloth enters the niachiiie uniicr the liar So and o\cr the 
adjustable tension-bar S-1, the adjustment of which is controlled by 
-segment cSo, cateh 86, and hand lever 87, at the end of the bar Ki. 
Thence it proceeds under idler 88, over the tension roll (iO, under 
and around idler 89, directly in front of the napping cylinder. The 
idlers 88, 89, and the tension-roll liO arc nioiniteil in brackets 90, 
whic-h are fastened to brackets -11 and II', extending across between 
tlie girders 2 and 2'. 

The directions of movement of the drum-c\ lindcr of ca<h series 
of napping-rolls, and of the cloth, are respectively indicated by the 
arrows 100, 101, 102, and 104. The direction in which the brush 48 
moves is indicated by the arrow lO."'). 

The result is a nap nmch shorter, thicker, more evenly di.-?- 
tributetl, and more like a felt or "fieeci'" than the nap raised on a 
regular najiper, the fabric handling much thicker and fuller even 
after washing or use and nuieh less liable to become matted into 
bunches by rubbing or washing. 



EXAMINATION PAPER 



KNIT GOODS FINISHING 



Read carefully: Place your namo and full aiUlress at the head of the 
paper. Any cheap, light pajjor like the sample previously sent you may be 
used. Do not crowd your work, hut arrange it neatly and legibly. Do nut 
iii/iii the iiii!<wers from the liixlrtirtloii Piiper; use ijovr own words, so that we 
may he sure that ijou uiiderslninl the xul>jert. 

1. De.scrihe briefly the a(ljii.stment.s of the chain-.stitcli machine. 

2. What are "nipper .spriiig.s" used for? 

3. Descrilie the lie.st .sy.stem of traciiif; earmcnts. 

4. AMiat jKiiiit.s .slioiiid he talceii into fon.sitieration in select- 
ing the material for a earment? 

5. Wiat brought al)oiit the introduction of readv-made clothing? 
G. ^Miat is necessary to make mediiun-priced garments sell 

well? 

7. Give in detail the finisliing process for flat goods. 

S. AAliat is done in selecting materials to insure natural color? 

9. To what must the designer's efforts be confined in making 
new styles? 

10. What are the point.s to be considered in the color scheme 
of a garment? 

11. AMiat are the results of using too high speed on the present 
machines? 

12. For what rea.sons is the old loo])ing or turning-off machine 
still kept in use? 

13. Explain fidly the napping process. 

14. Cla.ssify the types of .sewing machines, and name the dis- 
tinctive features of each. 

15. Describe l)riefly an important improvement for turning the 
wcl) in knitted garments. 

Ifi. What care must be taken in regard to the seams uniting 
ditt'ercnt parts of a garment? 

17. ^^^ly are knitted garm(>nts more extensively manufactured- 
than woven garments? 

IS. ^Miat is the style of underwear in most general use? What 
is the trend of the demand in that regard? 



KXIT GOODS FINISHING 



10. W'liMl arc (lie rccinirciiiciits for a jiood (iiiisliiiii,' iiiafliine 
table y 

20. Give a l)riet' liistory of tlie cieveiopiiieiit of llie triimiiiiif; 
device. 

21. Describe (he Willeox & (libbs "Overlock" macliine. 

'22. Wliat are tlie points of likeness am! ditVcrciicc in llic two 
|iriiiii|ial finisliinj; machine systems? 

2.'5. What dcl.criiiincs the linisli for all slyl<vs of liarincnts? 

24. What points ninsl be taken into consideration in desiirn- 
inj; knit jjoods? 

2"). How ar<' tiic best ri'snits obtaiue(i in knit <;-oods? 

20. Name the parts of a plain scwinj; inaciiinc, an<l describe 
tlieir adjustment. 

27. Wiiat are the causes for a scwini; macliine skippini; stitches, 
and the remedy for this? 

25. Name the ii.se.s of the Merrow "Plain Crochet" machine. 
29. In wliat respects does tlie Sit)<;cr chain-stitch machine 

differ from the Willeox & Gibbs? 

MO. ill workiiiii up sani|>lcs for an a]i|)roacliin^' season, what 
seems to liinii the held of the designers? 

After completing the work, add and sign the followinjr statement: 

I hereby cerlily lliat tlie above wciik i> (■aliri;ly my own. 

(Signed) 



